Designs featured on this page will only be available as long as licensed versions of the figures do not exist.
All my STL files, including any future releases, will stop being shared if *ANYONE* is discovered attempting to produce and sell figures based on these designs for financial gain. If you aren't sure what this means, read the F.A.Q. page, contact me on Facebook, or just assume that if you are requesting money for any product constructed using these designs, you are breaking the rules and DON'T DO IT!
All it takes is one greedy person to ruin the fun for everybody.
Nobody is perfect and neither are these figures.
While I try to make sure my figures are printable before I post the STL file links on this site, there is no guarantee that every figure will print correctly for everybody on every machine every time.
In 3D printing there is always
some variance between what a design looks like in CAD and what actually comes out of your machine. Different machines use different types of filament, nozzle sizes, layer heights, temperatures, infill percentages, print speeds, support structures, et al. all of which can contribute to the success or failure of a print. I have also been known to make mistakes as well (it happens.)
As I print exclusively in SLA resin these days, even if the figure works perfectly for me, the alternate PLA versions (which I rely on other people to test) may have their own issues I haven't accounted for.
So, if your print keeps self-destructing,
has joints that don't seem to fit together, appears to be missing a part, or has other structural issues, feel free to pop on over to the project's Facebook Group or tag @troyryanwood on instagram and share your tale of printing woe. (I also enjoy hearing your success stories if a print job goes well too!)
Depending on what problems you're having, I may be able to recommend some setting changes or possibly tweak the design itself, especially if you're one of the first people to test print it.
All figures posted here are "finished," but some figures are more finished than others.
The file links listed below are catagorized as either Beta or Finished.
Beta links go to Google Drive zip files containing all the individual STL files needed to print a complete version of the figure. All the pieces should fit together... with a little coaxing, however, the design may still require additional fine tuning to bring it to full "Finished" status. Some articulation points may be a little loose or require additional sanding down, the scale may be slightly off, or one of the optional extras like LED lights or motors may not function quite the way I intended it to.
Finished links go to the exact same Google Drive zip files, but enough people have successfully printed them (in both PLA and SLA) that I'm confident the figure should work as intended for most people on most machines.
You may also
occasionally see a figure that was previous listed as Finished jump back to Beta status.
If this happens, it's because I've got back and altered the design significantly enough that I feel it needs to be fully retested again.
(Ex: the Chumblies, which I rebuilt from scratch in early 2021)
If you are paying a 3D printing service to print a figure for you, it is *highly* recommended that you only print fromFinished links, orBeta that you've seen other people print successfully before you. As the 11th Doctor would put it: "Do the smart thing... Let somebody else try first."
All figures are designed to be printed at standard 0.1mm (100 micron) layer height on regular PLA filament printers or at 0.02mm layer height (20 micron) on resin printers unless otherwise noted.
The chart below indicates what print materials each figure is currently desinged to work with.
Most figures will print or a regular PLA filament printer, but the humanoid ones like the Voord and Sensorites may require significant cleaning up to make presentable, and some figures with transparent pieces (like the TARDIS console sets) really benefit from having those parts printed in clear resin.
If you are resin printing, I highly recommend using a flexible resin
likeSiraya Tech's Tenacious as an additive to make them stronger and prevent them from snapping or breaking if accidentally dropped. While Tenacious is quite pricey, you only have to use a small amount (about 20-25% by volume) to get the desired strengthening effect.
A few figures require flexible resin in higher concentrations to fuction properly, which will be noted in the Print Recommendations section of the figure itself.
Most of my figures make use of 1.5mm wide brass rods for knee, elbow, and other pivot joints. These can be purchased in most craft/hobby stores with a model airplane section or simply bought online. While brass rods are preferrable because they're quite sturdy yet easy to trim to a precise length with a regular pair of wire cutters, in a pinch, you can substitute a bit of wire coathanger or even a toothpick.
Additionally, several of the figures come with optional mounts for low-cost LED string lights, LED bricks, motors, springs, or remote control elements
that can be used to turn your figure into something truly special. In most cases, these toys can still be enjoyed without these additional parts, but given the choice, who doesn't want a Rutan or TARDIS console that lights up at the press of a button?
Notes: I've completely redesigned ol' Alpha Centauri from the ground up. Everything should be a lot cleaner and more professional looking now, and the newly redesigned arms pass all the way through the body so that you can move them like a finger puppet (or possibly attach thick wire to them and make it more of an actual puppet). I have no idea if the head veins will actually print on a regular resolution printer, but they're definitely showing up on my 20 micron machine.
Print Recommendations: The hands should be printed solid at 100% fill to prevent possible snapping during play.
Depending on the quality of print, the arm holes may need to be slightly sanded or dremelled out so that the hands slide in, but do not pop out.
Color Recommendations: My design is based on the version of Alpha Centauri seen in The Curse of Peladon, where he/she/it is wearing a yellow-blending-down-to-green cape with a shorter, more ruffled neck. The body also blends down yellow to green in the same colorization. The cape used in Monster of Peladon is a flat pale green color and has a significantly higher, less ruffled neck with almost pillow-like padding. The eye/head also changed significantly between the two stories. Curse of Peladon Alpha has what appears to be a dark blue iris and a slightly lighter blue pupil surrounded be dark redish black lines. The pupil also takes up the majority of the eye with very little white around the edges. Monster of Peladon Alpha has a lighter green complexion, and a conpletely different iris with an outer blue ring surrounding a silver circle, and then a dark blue pupil the same color as the iris. The eyelids have a more pronounced red lining, and the eye veins are also more visible, though this may just be due to the lighter coloring.
Notes: The "eye tubes" are too small to print legibly even on a resin printer, though I have done my best to create a model that at least has tube-shaped bumps in the appropriate places.
This design contains a couple of large scale accessories; a hexagonal background wall with removable pieces of rubble, and the Dominator's atomic drill. For the PLA version, I printed my drill out of a color changing thermoplastic so that the unpainted sections "light up" white when held in your hand! For the SLA resin versions, I used clear resin, but added some glow in the dark resin dye to the mix to make a version that would light up when exposes to UV light.
Print Recommendations: The head/arms/legs should be printed solid at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I use 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to prevent possible snapping during assembly or play. After printing, carefully trim the supports away from the four horizontal points on the head with a set of wire cutters and/or an xacto blade.
I highly recommend leaving the body in its current "back on the ground" state to ensure the cleanest possible print in the arm hole areas so that the arms slot in nice and clean without any wobbling.
When assembling, you may need a rubber mallet to force the feet into the slots. Always put them in first before doing the head so you can set the figure down upside down on a nice flat surface and give each leg a good sharp whack squarely on top with the mallet. Be sure to hit it squarely and not from the side, so you don't accidentlly snap them.
Color Recommendations: Thanks to some rare color photos from Panopticon and Longleat, we now know that the Quark costume was a dark charcoal grey, and the "eye tubes" were silver, and the bottom panels of the head were transparent so the actors inside could see out. But more interestingly the perspex points are shown with dark red tips that weren't at all visible during the episode or during the publicity photos taken with Troughton during the filming of The War Games.
There are two possible explanations for this: The tips were painted by someone attempting to "restore" the original prop for the convention circuit, or there was a separate "command Quark" head similar to a Cyberleader helmet that wasn't used as often as the others, and only appears in background shots where the tips aren't visible on screen.
Notes: This figure has been completely redesigned from scratch to be more screen accurate and resin printer friendly.
This figure uses a mechanism similar to a clicky ballpoint pen to switch between raised and lowered states. The figure require the following off-the shelf parts for assembly:
One 3/8"(9.4mm) by 1 7/8"(47.4mm) compression spring. (Required if you want the Chumbley to be able to stand at full height without being held up)
One 1/8"(4.7mm) by 1 1/2"(38.5mm) or shorter compression spring (Optional, if you want the
head part to wobble.)
One 1.5mm wide brass craft rod to be trimmed to length for the arm pivots and to secure the
top of the cylinder mechanism. These can be found in most craft stores that have a model
airplane section. Alternatively you can use a wire coat hanger or even toothpicks. 4 metal pins for the top antenna and telescopic probe. Large insect collecting pins with a
small teardrop shaped head work best. A small tube of UV craft resin and a UV flashlight is recommended for sealing holes and locking
the craft rod arm pivots in place, but gel crazy glue or even paint will work in most cases.
Print Recommendations: There are separate folders with different file variants for PLA (filament) and SLA (Resin)
printing. Make sure you use the correct files for your printer type.
If printing in filament, The pincers and claw arm should be printed individually at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I used 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to prevent possible snapping during assembly or play. If resin printing, I highly recommend you print these parts separate from the rest out of a flexible resin like Siraya Tech's Tenacious for maximum flexibility. It shouldn't take much to print these three parts, and if you have any left in the vat when you're done, top up with regular resin and print the bottom skirt next because the little feet are also delicate and easily snapped off, and printing out of at least 25-30% Tenacious will given them just enough flexibility to resist breaking if dropped.
If you are PLA printing, you will need to print the Split Cylinder Base, Split Lower Skirt, Split Lower Skirt Pegs, and Split Legs and Base as 4 separate pieces and then glue them all together. If resin printing, these four pieces will already be combined into a single piece called Lower Skirt Legs and Cylinder Base for SLA.
Paint and Assembly Instructions: This figure has some uncharacteristically complex assembly instructions. After all pieces have printed, do the following in this order:
Paint all sections and allow to dry completely. You must do this first, because many of the areas you need to paint will be inaccessible after assembly. Several of the pieces will be rubbing on each other, so to ensure the best possible paint job, I recommend slathering on a layer of dullcote lacquer once finished to try to protect it as much as possible.
Insert the two upper arm and middle arm pieces into their holes and insert your 1.5mm craft rod (or whatever you're using as a substitute) into the hole (if it won't slide in freely, you may need to very carefully and slowly drill out the hole). Once the rod is all the way in, mark it at the edge of the hole and then cut it a mm or so shorter. Reinsert the cut rods and seal it in place with UV resin or crazy glue. If using crazy glue make sure it's the gel kind. You don't want to accidentally glue the arms in place.
Bend and insert 3 pins into the holes in the top of the head part (these will likely need to be cut short), and slightly bend and insert another pin into the hole on the top of the upper skirt part to create the telescopic probe. If your pin does not have a large enough head, you may need to make it larger by adding a drop of UV craft resin. You want it large enough that the head of the pin just barely sits on top of the hole without falling in but can be grasped and pulled up easily using your finger nails. Use more UV craft resin to create a stopper on the underside of the pin so the probe can't be pulled all the way out.
Note that if your pin is too long, you may need to trim it so it doesn't interfere with the travel path of the cylinder plunger.
Next insert the Cylinder Plunger into the Cylinder. glue one end of your larger 3/8" spring to the
circular depression in the center of your lower skirt. *DO NOT* glue the top of the spring to
the underside of the plunger, it needs to be able to spin freely.
Once the glue has dried, the plunger should move up and down and you should be able to lock it at a lower
height by rotating clockwise as you press down, and then do the same to let it spring back up to full height.
Raise the plunger to it's highest height. Stick on the middle skirt section and the upper skirt section. There should be a small hole on the side of the upper skirt just below the right claw that you can stick a 1.5mm craft rod through that will also pass through the hole in the top of the plunger mechanism and through to another hole on the other side of the upper skirt.
As you did before with the arms, insert the craft rod, then pull it out slightly and cut it about 1mm short, then stick it all the way through again. If seated properly, this should firmly secure the upper skirt to the top of the plunger and allow you to use it to push down and set the height of the Chumbley. Seal the ron in place with UV craft resin or gel crazy glue.
Finally, use the optional smaller 1/8" spring to attach the head to the upper skirt. You will likely
need to trim the 1/8" sprint to length before gluing it in place. It should be just long enough that the head part has a bit of wobble. If you don't have a spring of the correct size, you can glue the head onto the top of the upper skirt directly.
Color Recommendations: I've never been able to find a color photo of the original props themselves, however the colorized photo is probably pretty close. The dome parts appear to be of a semi-transparent tan or grey fiberglass material, and in one scene during the surviving Airlock episode, at least one of the three main Chumbley props had some blinking internal lights that are just barely visible from inside the bottom skirt section. The base, feet, and middle claw appear to be a standard brushed steel color.
The sections between the dome parts is solid black, and the tips of the antenna are painted black. The telescopic probe appears to be entirely silver.
Note that a lot of people, myself included, thought the Chumblies were a lot smaller than they actually are. In reality, the props are very nearly the same size as a Dalek (which are also deceptively large in person) and a little bit bigger around the middle. While information on their costruction at Shawcraft is limited, based on how they move and the extremely limited way in which they "collapse" I believe they were built over the top of a moving dolly, that the operator sat or crouched down on with an A-frame over his shoulders to lift up the second dome, leaving his hands free to push himself along the studio floor or operate the claw arms. Overall, the operating mechanics probably weren't all that different from a Dalek.
Notes: This figure has been redesigned for improved door mobility and to add insets to the inside of the front panel where earth magnets can be mounted to simulate the "fridge magnet" style control layout. This is a VERY large figure that requires a build area that is at least 7" x 7". Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.
Print Recommendations: I recommend that the front panel and door be printed at 70% fill or higher to give it maximum support. Depending on how prone your printer is to warping, the front panel may require a manual brim around each of the 4 corners for added support (see Tinker version for details)
Color Recommendations: While I've never been able to find a color photo of the prop itself, it's described in the episode as being "a big green box," and original design blueprints specify that the prop should be painted "Bronze Green" with two accent lines of "Ford Tractor Grey" next to the door. The interior is supposed to be black, except for the base of the door platform, which is "Flambeau Red." So there you go. You can find examples of each color (with slight variations) on a google image search, but it seems like in all three cases they were using common industrial tractor paint, so that's what I'd use for color matching. Based on similar greyscale color pallets from the same episode, it appears to be more or less the same hue as an army jeep, so this colorized photo below is probably pretty accurate.
005 - Larvae Gun/Venom Grub
Version 3 - Updated 1/18/2020
Notes: Avery simple 2-piece figure with no articulation. Just print the two halves and then crazy glue together.
Print Recommendations: For PLA, both sections should be printed individually at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I used 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to prevent possible snapping during play. (As of version 3 I've provided some extra reinforcement to the legs, but they're still pretty easy to snap off, and the same goes for the "gun" snout.)
The files are pre-hollowed for SLA printing. The top should be angled at about 30 to 45 degrees
with supports added along the underside of the gun and at each of the tips where the edge of the shell dips down. The legs should be printed upside down and can be similarly angled.
If possible, I recommend you use a flexible resin like
Siraya Tech's Tenacious as either an additive or as your primary resin with a little bit of black resin dye so that the snout and legs are flexible and less likely to snap off. I used about a 75% mixture and it's holding up nicely without causing the paint to flake off.
Color Recommendations: If you're wondering about color, I came across some rare 60's color photograph that shows the top section was a dark chocolate brown color and the legs are a yellowish "mattress foam" color with several random horizontal lines painted on them to simulate leg joints.
006 - Dalek Time Machine
Version 2 - Updated 3/7/2018
Notes: This is a VERY large figure that will just barely fit on my 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1" build area if I disable both Raft and Brim in CURA. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.
Print Recommendations: Because the figure is so large, curling/warping is your enemy, especially since you probably won't be able to use a raft or brim. You're going to want to do everything you possibly can to prevent heat loss. and keep the roof and floor completely flat. I recommend spraying down a ton of non-aerosol hairspray, using a borosilicate glass plate if you have a heated bed, and if it's physically possible to do so, seal up your printer inside an enclosure, even if it's something you have to build yourself out of cardboard.
Color Recommendations: While I can't find color photos of the version of the Dalek Time Machine used in The Chase (the version in Dalek Masterplan was different), it appears that the inside of the arches were silver and the outsides were the same robin egg blue color as Dalek hemispheres from the same serial.
Notes: This Beta version is fully printable, but I eventually plan on going back to clean up the leg joints, add some detail to the eyes, and change the pivot type on the neck to a ball joint for more natural movement.
Print Recommendations:You will need to print *TWO* copies of both the front arm and back arm STL files in order to have enough limbs for a complete figure. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer. I highly recommend that the arms be printed individually and solid at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I use 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to make them less prone to snapping. I would also recommend doing the same for the head, since the mandibles are pretty fragile and very easy to snap off.
If possible, I recommend printing using black TPU filament, which is flexible and less likely to break, though somewhat difficult to control when printing small narrow pieces like the arms.
Color Recommendations: Based off rare color photos from the 60's it appears that the Zarbi were a chocolate brown color, similar to that of the Larvae Guns.
008 - Dalek Hoverbout
Version 2 - Updated 4/1/2018
Notes: This is another VERY large figure that will only fit on printers with a 7" x 7" or larger build area. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.
Print Recommendations: Because it's a large print job, all the usual warnings about preventing warping apply. I recommend spraying down a ton of non-aerosol hairspray, using a borosilicate glass plate if you have a heated bed, and if it's physically possible to do so, seal up your printer inside an enclosure, even if it's something you have to build yourself out of cardboard. the railing should be printed solid at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I use 10) to ensure the cleanest possible print, but be warned that even under perfect conditions, the underside of the spheres (which will actually be the tops) are going to come out a little rough and stringy. You will very likely have to sand or grind them down yourself before painting, which is why printing at 100% fill is recommended.
Color Recommendations: It's all one color. Metallic silver.
Notes: You will need to print *TWO* copies of the arm, leg, and shoulder light STL files in order to have enough pieces for a complete figure. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer. Special thanks to Hastran on TurboSquid, who allowed me to use his original 3D sculpt as the basis for my figure. In March 2021 I revisited the design and made some alterations to make the figure more screen accurate and resin printer friendly.
This figure requires one 1.5mm wide brass craft rod to be trimmed to length for the internal leg pivot. These can be found in most craft stores that have a model
airplane section. Alternatively you can use a wire coat hanger or even a toothpick.
Print Recommendations: This file uses the same files for both PLA and SLA printing.
If printing out of PLA, I recommend that the arms and legs be printed individually at somewhere between 70-100% fill at a slow print speed (I use 20) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and make them as strong as possible.
Color Recommendations: There are some nice color photos of the original prop, albeit with several of the original knobs missing. The lights on the shoulder are red, the "eyes" are a jumble of circuitry that looks to be mostly copper in color, just like the chest grate. The two little lights to the left and right (the right ones have fallen off in the photo below) are red on top, and blue on the bottom. The accordion parts of the arms and legs are black, but the claws and feet are silver. The trapezoid pattern on the front of the feet is black.
Notes: You will need *FIVE* to *SIX* copies of the tube STL file in order to have enough segments for a complete figure. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer. The zip file contains three sub-folders depending on whether you plan on printing using regular PLA filament, standard hard SLA resin, or a mix of hard and flexible SLA resin.
Print Recommendations: While this figure will sort of print in regular PLA filament, due to its cylindrical nature, the tube segments do not fit together particularly well and the tube will have very obvious rough overhangs. If you do print in PLA, the Root Tube pieces should be printed at 100% infill for maximum strength. The Root Head can be printed at 50-60% infill, and the Root Rock base can be printed at 40% infill, though 100% infill will give you more weight and stability, as well as a sturdier base plug.
This figure is best printed on a SLA resin machine
using a 50/50% mix of standard black or grey resin and a flexible resin like Siraya Tech's Tenacious. (Unless you manage to find a dark colored flexible resin, then you could make the entire thing flexible, but there are no such resins on the market at this time, so a 50/50% mix of the clear stuff is about the best you can get and still keep the dark color.) The Tube and Rock parts need to be printed out of this 50/50% mix, but the Head can be printed out of 100% regular resin, since it doesn't need to move at all.
If you use the flexible resin,
be careful not to soak the parts in IPA for too long, as this will start to discolor them. The split prongs at the tip of the tubes and rock should bend slightly when pinched using regular finger pressure. In this way, they can be linked together and attached to the head. It will take a few seconds for the prongs to revert back to their original position, at which point the pieces will be securely locked in place, and nearly impossible to pull apart.
If you only have standard hard resin, you
can still print this figure using the hard resin files, though the pieces will come apart if you twist them in just the right way.
You can technically make your root as long as you want, 5 to 6 body segments is usually plenty for something you are going to display on your shelf.
Color Recommendations: There appear to be two different root props used during the filming of Death to the Daleks. The hero prop was a dark gun-metal grey with a silverish body, and a light-up yellow eye. The submersable version used for outdoor quarry filming seems to be a darker black color, and likely lacked the light-up eye as it was being used around water.
011 - Dalek Transmat
Version 4 - Updated 7/22/2018
Notes: The zip file contains three sub-folders depending on whether you plan on printing a solid version (which must be painted) a modular version which uses flashing LED string light that are operated by a button, or a non-flashing version that uses a different type of LED string lights which can be operated by a switch on the base. You will need to print *ONE* copy of the Transmat platform in the root folder (I have included an alternate with a brim added, since mine was curling a bit), and *TWO COPIES* of everything in the Solid or Light-Up sub folders, depending on which version you want to make. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer.
Print Recommendations: It is recommended that the hemisphere lights and triangular border pieces be printed in transparent PETG at 100% fill for maximum transparency if you are planning on using LED lights. PETG requires a much higher print temperature than PLA (I set mine to 250) and works best at a super low print speed of about 10.
Alternatively, an opaque "Neutral" PLA will probably also work.
Color Recommendations: The transmat platform and generators are both flat black, and the access panel is a gun-metal grey. The inside of the generators appear to be a neutral cream color (or possibly just unpainted fibreboard).
The nine hemisphere lights are an off-white color and light up the "soft white" color of a filament light bulb. The three triangular border pieces are a similar color to the lights, but the top and bottom edges are solid black. The circuit boards are green and mostly silver (prior to getting smashed by Ace's bat) as shown below. There are also some red cables connecting the inner side walls of the generators to the back of the front access panel which help hold it in place when opened. These are too small and flexible to be reproduced on a 3D printer but if you want to go the extra mile, you can try using real red plastic-coated wires and embedding then in a small blob of melted filament on the back of the access door.
As you can see, the interior is partially illuminated, so it's okay if there's some light spillage from behind the circuit boards, but try to keep the LEDs secured firmly as far up into the top hemispheres as they will reach. (This will mainly be governed by the amount of wire you have between each LED). If you find the figure is too bright and lighting up areas that shouldn't be see-through, or you have unwanted LEDs at the end of the string it is recommended that you cover unwanted lights with tin foil rather than cutting off the LEDs themselves, since this can cause the remaining LEDs and wire to overheat and burn out faster. Tin foil can also be glued in place to form effective light barriers on the inside of sections that are not supposed to light up.
Light-up Recommendations: This can be a little tricky, especially if you're going for the flashing lights. The first thing you're going to need to do (after putting batteries in your string lights and making sure they all turn on, and painting the inside of the Transmat generator if you want it to be white) is carefully trim off the corner of the battery compartment with a pair of wire cutters so that the wires come out the side rather than the bottom. (see below) This will help the Transmat generators sit flat when construction is finished.
Next, insert the button piece into the back panel (this may need to be shaved down a bit depenending on how sloppily it printed, so that it moves freely in the square hole), then insert the battery pack into the hole in the back panel's base so that the button on the battery pack lines up with the button piece your printed and the wire comes out on the same side as the battery pack and IS NOT coming out the bottom. Once everything is in place, test that the printed button works for turning the lights off an on, then glue it together.
Next, make sure that your domes fit into the nine circular recesses on the outer perimeter of the Transmat generators. DO NOT glue them in place yet! We just want to make sure they fit. There's a pretty good chance the ones on the sides in particular may be slightly warped from the printing process. If this is the case, you can attempt to cut (with an xacto blade) melt (with a soldering iron) or drill them out to the appropriate size. We still want to retain the inner lip, so if using a drill, do not drill all the way through. A step bit is ideal for this purpose, and will give you a nice uniformly circular hole. You actually may not even need the drill, hand turning the step bit may be enough to smooth out the rough edges.
Once you know your domes will slot in place, then comes the tricky part (at least on the blinking LED version), where you have to snake EVERY OTHER LED through one of the nine holes to ensure all the lights that are visible from the outside will blink in sequence. This is easiest to do with the lights turned on, and you may need a crochet hook, tweezers, or some other tool to poke/pull them through the holes. For now, leave plenty of wire, since you don't want to have to try to fish one out from the wad in the middle once the two halves of the generator are glued together.
Next, glue the back panel in place. This will involve carefully making sure that the white battery panel slots into the arch-shaped hole with no wires underneath it, and no wires getting in the way of the panel itself. Once that's glued together, then shove as much of the wad of lights in the middle as you can into the middle area where the tiny circular holes are, and glue the top and bottom halves together as well, again, making sure that no wires are sticking out where they shouldn't.
Then add the three transparent border pieces, and once they're set in place, you can start gluing the LEDs into the domes, and gluing the domes into the circular holes (which you should have already tested to make sure they slot in place). Finally, once that step's done, tap down any remaining exposed LEDs, and glue your painted green circuit board into place. Then snap in the grey access panel door.
If you want to get fancy, you can then add extra wires from the side wall of the generator to the back of the door.
012 - Keller Machine
Version 4 - Updated 10/26/2019
Notes: I've tweaked this figure with SLA printing in mind, so there are now four folders with different variants in the Finished zip file above:
Solid for PLA or SLA - A plain solid version that doesn't light up.
LED Brick for PLA - This version has a hole for a UniBlock LED brick, that will make the figure light up (note that the button may not print on lower resolution machines, and it's recommended you use PETG for the transparent cylinder part)
LED Brick for SLA - Uses the same style LED Brick, but has more surface detail and two options for the upper cylinder, a one-piece where the cylinder and dome are merged together and a two-piece, where the dome is removable so that you can see the mind parasite inside.
LED Brick and resin holes for SLA - Same as above, but there are holes leading back from the two control panel lights to where the LED brick slots in place that can be filled with clear resin and then tinted to make these elements light up as well.
Print Recommendations: Rather surprisingly, I was able to print the Solid for PLA version on a standard 1mm resolution machine and the handles still came out, but your mileage may vary depending on your temperature settings. If you're having considerable trouble getting them to print, you may want to consider snipping them off with a pair of wire cutters, drilling two small holes for the bases, and then just inserting two bent pieces of filament of the appropriate lengths.
If you're going with the Solid for PLA version, it is recommended that the top section be printed in transparent PETG at 100% fill for maximum clarity. PETG requires a much higher print temperature than PLA (I set mine to 250) and works best at a super low print speed of about 10.
For SLA, make sure that you orient your print dome-side down, so that resin does not get trapped inside during the printing process. If you're printing the two-piece dome, you can fill in the ends of the two drainage tubes with a tiny bit of clear resin when you're done, but try to leave as much of the tube intact as possible, since the Keller Machine props had visible light bulbs in this area that the tubes simulate.
Depending on whether you want the option of removing your LED brick later (the battery will eventually die, but not for a good long while if you assemble it right) you can carefully fill in the underside of the model with resin and cure with a hand-held LED, but be wary as there are some small holes leading into the LED brick, that you do not want to accidentally trap resin in. Putting down a very thin square of tin foil to prevent light leakage may also help in this regard.
Color Recommendations: I recommend using a white or red LED brick depending on what effect you're going for. (for most of the episodes it's got a white light, though later it's psychic attack effect is orangeish) Since the underside of the brick is exposed, you'll need to paint it with grey model paint, and probably the rest of the figure as well to be consistent. The handles, neck, and control plate are metallic silver, the top, vertical struts, and knobs are black, and the left light on the front is white or yellow, and the right light is blue. The parasite creature has a small white eye in the center, as seen in the second photo.
If you are printing the LED Brick and resin holes for SLA version, mount your LED brick, and do all your painting and assembly first. As your last step, fill the cone-shaped holes leading from the front panel to the LED Brick with clear UV resin. (this should be done in a couple of layers so you can cure each one with your UV light.) Once you have filled the cones up to the surface of the control panel, mix a tiny bit of UV resin with a drop of liquid UV Resin coloring dye and use a 1ml syringe with a blunt tip 18GA or 20GA dispensing needle (or carefully try to drip from the point of a pin) onto the surface where the light is supposed to go. The drop should form a natural bump. You may have to do this once or twice, but ideally you only want the outside surface of the light to be tinted resin so it gets the maximum amount of light shining through from the LED brick. If your color tinted resin runs, wipe it off quickly with a paper towel soaked in Isopropyl Alcohol and try again. Do not let it get exposed to UV light.
Notes: This is another VERY large figure that will only fit on printers with a 7" x 7" or larger build area. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.
This figure works perfectly fine for standard non-motorized use, but I've been having trouble getting the underpowered Go-Brix motors to work as intended. This latest Beta version strips the weight of the body down to an absolute minimum, but I haven't had time to reprint yet to see if it's drivable or if the new cam system for the arms has enough torque to make the arms whomp up and down.
Print Recommendations: Since weight is an issue, I recommend printing the three main body sections, the cams, tape spools, front wheel, and arms, at 60% fill. The gun tubes, radar dish, and headlight should all be printed at 100% for maximum strength.
The design comes with built-in heat barrier walls around the main body sections to prevent warping, but I highly recommend you use an
Anycubic Ultrabase borosilicate glass plate, high quality PLA+ filament, some non-aerosol hairspray, and a printer enclosure to combat warping any way you can. This will also ensure that the visible undersides of the top section are nice and smooth.
This design comes with a few alternate parts depending on whether you plan on using a UniBlock brick for the headlight, please pay close attention to the instructions below:
The only two War Machines featured on screen were numbers 3 and 9 (9 being the one we saw the most of.) However, per the story, there were supposed to be at least 12 of them attacking London. I have included extra number plates for 2, 3, 5, 8, and a blank number plate that you can write your own numbers on if you wish, though if you're only building one machine or don't want to swap out plates, you only need to print the 9 or 6 number plate. (Incidentally, the numbers on the War Machines, and letters in the opening title cards are both based on the old E-13B font used for magnetic ink character recognition. You can view an example here if you want to paint your own.)
If you are going to use a UniBlock light-up brick for the headlight, print the WM body for LED brick version of the body. You can also print WM Headlight lens (Resin or PETG)out of clear resin or PETG, though if you have a bottle or small tube of clear epoxy resin, you can easily drip some into the front headlight hole to both hold the LED brick in place and form a nice clear headlamp that the LED can easily shine through.
If you are going to use a Go-Brix motor to power the whomping arms, it will then attach to the back of the LED brick.
If you aren't going to use the UniBlock light-up brick for the headlight, print the WM body without LED version of the body instead. You can use this version regardless of whether you intend to use any Go-Brix motors. You do not need to print the WM Headlight lens (Resin or PETG) file since the headlight section will be solid.
If you have access to a resin printer, you can print the WM 63mm gear axle (Resin only) file to make your own axel for the whomping arms, however, a standard 63mm Lego brick axle works just as well, and is probably going to be cheaper.
You only need to print the WM Radar dish motor or rubber band mount file if you intend to use a 4th motor to spin the radar dish, or attach a rubber band to it so it can be spun and released.
You must print the WM cams file, even if you don't intend to motorize the arms, since the top cam is used to hold each of the arms in place. Also make sure you print two copies of both the WM Gun Tube (PRINT 2) and WM Arm (PRINT 2) files, as it says in the file names. If having the figure printed by a print-to-order service, make sure this is clearly communicated.
Assembly Instructions: This figure can be compex to assemble, so pay close attention to the directions below:
trim off the extra build supports and heat barriers from around the body sections. Be careful not to damage the door handle on the back of the body. It may be a bit tricky to clean all of the support structure out of the headlamp and Lego brick holes, but it's a lot easier to do before you glue any of the parts together. A pair of curved jeweler's tweezers comes in really handy at this point.
Next, you need to insert the top cams with the bump on the top and the hole in the bottom into the interior arm slots as shown below. (They may need to be sanded down if you can't squeeze them into the available hole) The cam levers must be pointed downward in the 8 o'clock position as show. Once positioned correctly, force the arms through from the other side. As long as everything is lined up, you should be able to do this without a hammer, but you may need to sand the ends of the arms down a bit if they're too tight.
Next, if you are going to use a Go-Brix motor to power the arms, slide your 63mm axle through the middle of the motor, then attach the second set of rounded cams to either side of the motor as shown.
There should be just enough room to slide the axle and motor assembly down the incline slot on the side walls, then click the motor brick in place. If it's loose, you may need to crazy glue it, but the cams should spin freely on the axle (which should be slotted into the available hole) and turn the cams attached to the arms, causing them to rise up and fall back down.
If you do not plan on using a motor here, you can skip this part.
Then, snap the four tape spools through the round holes on the side of the body.
Depending on how good your printer is at printing overhangs, they may pop right in, or your may have to sand/grind down the rough edges of the holes to be more uniformly circular. A large 1/4 inch step bit
on a low speed (or even turned by hand) can often be enough to smooth out any minor imperfections.
Carefully push the radar dish part down through the hole in the top of the War Machine. If you are going to use a rubber band to wind the radar dish, insert it through the horizontal hole in the rubber band mount then snap the mount in place on the underside of the radar dish part. The other end of the rubber band can loop around the hook on the back of the War Machine top.
If you are going to use a motor to operate the radar dish by remote control, insert a 95mm Lego axle into the plus shaped hole on the underside of the rubber band mount. This will connect to a motor in the base.
For the base, depending on how well the Lego mounts printed, you may have to glue the motors in place. You should be able to use the existing wheels and small blue axles that come with the Go-Brix. Make sure the switches are facing towards the inside of the War Machine so you can operate them during play.
If you are using a fourth motor to spin the radar dish, you will need to mount it in the rear Lego mount then push the 95mm Lego axle through the hole in the top.
The War Machine will drive smoother if you attach wheels to the underside of the back end so it doesn't drag along the ground. Depending on what Lego wheels you have available, you can attach 1, 2, or 3 of them here.
If you are using motors, you can glue the bottom and mid sections of the War Machine together, but do not glue the mid section to the top. This will make it impossible to change the battery in the arm motor at a later date, or manually free up any cam parts that have jammed.
Color Recommendations: This is another Doctor Who villain for which no original color photographs exist, so we have to guess at some of the color detail.
It seems most likely that the War Machine was a light silver color similar to the second photo below (which is a fan reproduction, not an original).
The bottom base trim, paddle wheel flaps, and rounded tubing area directly behind the hammers are all black. The rounded tubing at the shoulder pivot is silver though.
The large flat rectangular speaker grille (or whatever it's supposed to be) directly below the number plate on the front of the War Machine is also black, but note that the ones on the side are not. In some shots, these appear darker than the rest of the machine, so I ended up painting mine a slightly darker grey as opposed to silver. I also did the same to the trim around the access panel on the back. The "window" on the back door is black.
The number plates are white with black numbering. Each of the four smaller lights on the front of the War Machine are whitish opaque and have a small amount of black trim around the outer edge. The tape spools are grey with black (or dark grey) insides, and the half cylinder above the light panel appears to be silver with possibly a thin black trim around the outer edge (Though from another photo, it looks like the edged may have been designed to light up.)
The light panels on the sides are the most frustrating pieces not to have color reference photos of, since it looks like the individual cells were probably at least three different colors. At least the bottom panel was back-lit, however, this is not really visible during the episodes themselves.
The grid pattern consists of 2 sets of 11x4 cells, and is identical on both sides of the machine. Just as a guess, I'm going to say they were yellow, orange, and red, and arranged in staggered formation like the example I put together below.
Notes: This figure has been redesigned for resin printing, though you can still print out of transparent green PLA or PETG if you have a high quality filament printer. This figure is designed to be fitted with a green UniBlock LED brick, but can still be printed without it, though this will leave it with a 2x3 Lego-sized hole in the base and a hole in the front where the button goes.
Print Recommendations: Ideally, the figure should be printed on a standard sized resin printer using a roughly 50/50% mix of transparent green resin and a flexible resin like Siraya Tech's Tenacious.
There is a
Rutan Body for SLA Resin with supports file in the zip file which is already correctly oriented and has supports for the tentacles already added. The only supports you should need to add are the platform ones for the head.
Alternatively, you can also print using regular filament on a HD machine capable of 20 micron resolution, however, you will likely need to do considerable clean-up with a soldering gun (see the Tips & Tricks page) to melt and smooth artifacts on the tentacles, and possibly ass additional "stringy" bits to the main blob. A soldering gun will also let you soften the heads of the two mobile "arms" before inserting them into the holes on the side.
Depending on your resolution and printer settings, the "key" tentacle that slots in the back and turns the light on or off may or may not print. If it doesn't, the light brick can be turned on with any Lego technic axle, and the hole plugged by the key tentacle until it's time to turn it off.
There are two different sizes of button in the Rutan LED Brick Buttons (multiple sizes) file, and two copies of each. This is because there are slight variations in depth depending on what brand of LED brick you use. Also, you may want spares if one of them breaks or gets lost, since it's a very small part. I recommend starting with the longer button first, and if it's too long, then pull it out with a pair of tweezers, and try the slightly shorter one.
Color Recommendations: The Rutan shouldn't require much painting if you get the initial green color right, however, you may want to add a small "dry brush" bit of white to the surface to emulate the internal white stringy bits, and then cover with a thin light green wash. Painting with a high gloss lacquer once you are done will give it a shiny slimy look.
Notes: This is another VERY large figure that will only fit on printers with a 7" x 7" or larger build area. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.
In it's current Beta state, it's designed to work with three white UniBlock LED light bricks, however, I will be redesigning the figure in the future to work with LED string lights so that the lights can be easily turned on and off with a switch, rather than having to use a "key" to turn on and off three separate bricks. Since the interior is hollow, you can easily forego the LED bricks and their support layer entirely, and just drop a set of LED string lights in underneath the removable fog layer, whenever you want to turn it on.
Print Recommendations: The fog layer, brick support layer, and floating stand should all be printed out of transparent PETG at 100% fill for maximum transparency if you are planning on using LED light bricks. PETG requires a much higher print temperature than PLA (I set mine to 250) and works best at a super low print speed of about 10.
Alternatively, an opaque "Neutral" PLA may also work. A higher resolution 20 micron printer will give you the best texture resolution on the exterior of the box, but is not required. I've seen some nice standard 100 micron resolution versions that other people have made.
Color Recommendations: For maximum authenticity, I recommend using Gizmo Dorks Metal Copper Fill filament for the box, if you can find it. The color is absolutely perfect, and looks quite a bit like real metal.
The Hand of Omega is usually seen throughout the episode layered in with bad CSO, which makes the dirt and grime added to it appear especially dark. During the few scenes where it's a static prop, we can see that this effect is much less pronounced, so if you're going to dirty your Hand up, go easy on the black paint.
016 - 12th Doctor’s Guitar & Sonic Shades
Version 1 - Updated 12/24/2017
Notes: I broke my unwritten rule of "no modern Who" to create this special tribute to Peter Capaldi shortly before the airing of his final episode on 12/25/2017.
Print Recommendations: The guitar accessory will ONLY print on SLA resin printers or 20 micron resolution or better PLA printers. All attempts to print this guitar on a standard 100 micron resolution PLA printer self destructed for me. It is primarily designed for SLA resin printing. If you do print in resin, I recommend adding a flexible resin like Siraya Tech's Tenacious as a strengthener since it's fragile enough to break just trying to remove it from the supports.
The sonic shades will only print on a SLA resin printer. Period.
They're thin enough that you can print them out of black resin and the lenses will still look semi-transparent.
Color Recommendations: Capaldi's guitar is a Yamaha SVG 800. You can find several photos of them up on the net. I have yet to figure out a way to reproduce the semi-reflective pearl sheen pattern on the white part of the guitar, but it's so tiny, it's a miracle it printed at all.
The Sonic shades are black. Print them out of black resin and you shouldn't have to paint them at all:
Notes: The zip file contains two sub-folders depending on whether you plan on printing a solid version or a light up version compatible with UniBlock LED bricks. The light up version can still be used without the LED lights, but it will have a hole in the back where the light control dial goes. This is a Beta design because I eventually plan on creating a version that's compatible with the LED string lights.
Print Recommendations: It is recommended that the entire design be printed in transparent PETG at 100% fill for maximum clarity. PETG requires a much higher print temperature than PLA (I set mine to 250) and works best at a super low print speed of about 10. Alternatively, an opaque "Neutral" PLA may also work, but won't light up as brightly. A higher resolution 20 micron printer is recommended simply because the light control dial features a very important plus-shaped prong the same size as a Lego technic axle to turn the light block on and off. If this doesn't print absolutely perfectly, you'll have no way to activate the light source. In the event that you can't get the dial to print properly, I recommend cutting the plus shaped prong off, and then very carefully drilling a hole in the exact center of the light control dial and then crazy-gluing one of the little black technic pieces that comes with the UniBlocks into the hole. If you do this, use a ton of glue and make sure it's 100% dry before you use it, because you don't want to break it loose.
Color Recommendations: the color is easy, the entire Ogri is sandstone brown. I used a can of Rust-Oleum 223524 Desert Bisque spray paint on mine, and the color came out just about perfect, though the spray paint itself was given to coming out in lumpy chunks that were prone to peeling off wherever it puddled, so your best bet is to spray lightly and in multiple coats. If you're using the light dial, make sure you mask off the underside of the base prior to painting so you don't get paint up inside the figure (which will just diminish the brightness when it lights up)
Notes: Possibly my finest figure to date, this design is based off the original Yeti costumes used during The Abominable Snowmen. The Mk. II seen in Web of Fear differed significantly, despite the episodes being filmed only a few months apart. The Mk. I Yeti looks much more like a living organic creature, and lack the weird "Moth" flashlight eyes, square mouths, and bare chests of the Mk. II's. They also have four fingers on each hand instead of three, and most unexpected of all, had somewhat creepy looking cats eyes that don't appear to have been visible at all in the filmed version. (Though since we're lacking 5 of the 6 episodes, it's hard to know for sure.)
My figure also comes with optional accessories including the pyramid of control spheres from the cave featured in episode 2.
Print Recommendations: Obviously, you will get better fur texture if you use a higher definition 20 micron printer rather than a standard definition 100 micron printer, but I've seen several people successfully print this figure in SD. I highly recommend printing the hands at 70% to 100% fill and the shoulders at 90% to 100% fill for maximum strength. The joint where the lower arm attaches to the upper is the hardest to fit together, and also the most likely to break when assembly. I cracked several getting my prototypes together, and while this V4 reprint goes together much easier, it's still a structural weak point. If you're having this figure printed professionally, you may want to splurge and get a couple of spare shoulders printed, just in case.
Color Recommendations: While this classic Troughton story is entirely missing aside from episode 2, we are quite lucky to have lots of excellent behind the scenes color photography and 8mm footage to consult, so we know exactly what the original Yeti looked like. The fur is a lighter brown on top, with a "dirty" grey tinted mid section, and the "face" and area around the chest flap are printed black. The hands and feet are black with white claws, and the chest cavity and control sphere are polished silver.
Useless information you don't really need to know: The oddest revelation about the original Yeti came as a surprise while I was pulling together source materials for my figure design. While not visible in the color photographs taken during filming (which have made it into several books and magazines since), watching the somewhat grainy 8mm footage, I was surprised to discover that the Yeti have eyes, and not the weird bicycle reflector "moth" eyes of the Mk. II. These appear to be yellow with almost cat-like pupils! Why we don't see them in the surviving telesnaps and Episode 2 footage is something of a mystery, but I suspect there might be a couple of explanations...
First, it's entirely possible this fellow above was a "hero" costume, which means it was given slightly more detail than some of the other background Yeti, and may have been used for a purported sequence in one of the later episodes where the yeti's eyes are supposed to light up. I've talked to at least one fan who claims to have seen this in the original camera script, though whether it actually made it onto film (or was even visible in the televised episode) we may never know. It also appears that the Yeti like to cover up their cats eyes with long fake eyelashes that appear to have been glued on as an afterthought, if this footage from the Schoolboys And Girls Exhibition (1967-1968) is any example.
And if the cats eyes weren't weird enough, it appears that they had a beak-like nose, which can't really be seen unless you get the perfect camera angle, like the one below.
Why am I telling you all this? I actually tried incorporating these elements into my original Yeti sculpt, but it came out looking more like a Gary Gygax owlbear than the Yeti we all know and love. A Yeti with a visible face... just doesn't seem right. So the figure I'm releasing is a compromise. It still has a bit of a beak, but not as sharp and hawk-like as the photo above, and I replaced the cats eyes with the lashes seen in the youtube video, but with a little bit of an indentation to imply that there are eyes under all that fur.
However, if you want to customize yours to match what we now know an accurate Yeti looks like, be my guest.
019 - Taran Wood Beast
Version 5 - Updated 4/19/2018
Notes: This was supposed to be a stupid April Fools joke, where I released an action figure no one wanted based on one of the most derided monster in Doctor Who history. Little did I know that this "quick and dirty" joke figure was going to take nearly a full month and countless prototypes to get anywhere near a printable state.
The figure also comes with a tiny Key To Time, which can be printed out of transparent PETG if you so choose.
Print Recommendations: You'll want to print the figure out of black PLA, ASB, or TPU. TPU is flexible, and may make it easier to fit the limbs together without snapping anything when assembling the figure, but it also has a tendency to blob up, especially when printing fine details, so it may not be possible to print the entire figure this way. Even after the version 5 update, it's still a royal pain getting this figure assembled without snapping anything. The feet and shoulders are the problem pieces, as the joint here are the weakest. The feet, shoulders, and hands should be printed at 90 to 100% fill for maximum structural integrity.
If you are having this figure professionally printed, I recommend requesting extra copies of both shoulders and feet because there's a very good chance you may need to replace at least one of them during assembly.
Color Recommendations: The Taran Wood Beast is black with a reddish brown face. It has what can only be described as dual lazy cat eyes that should be pointing off in different angles, and big white buck teeth. Really, the hardest part about painting this figure is making it look as shoddy and unconvincing as the original monster. I'm afraid that even with my limited artistic abilities, I still wasn't able to fully capture the inherent lameness of Tara's least threatening predator.
I held off making a TARDIS console for a full year, because I knew it would have to be spectacular, and I wanted to be at the top of my game when I created it. The design you see before you is as screen accurate as physically possible, even down to placement and colorization of the individual buttons. This is a VERY large figure that will just barely fit on my 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1" build area if I disable both Raft and Brim in CURA. I have included manual brims as part of the design to try to prevent curling on the outer corners, which is especially problematic for this piece in particular. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print. As of Version 5, this design also has support for a single 20 LED Fairy String Light that can be used to light the various console displays. (Note: some of the photos below show the earlier 4 version which used two multi-colored LED string lights. This is actually less screen accurate than just using white ones, and takes up more room, so I changed it)
I'm still listing this one as a beta design since I haven't had a chance to reprint the latest Version 5 changes, which incorporates a new column design, a split console base, and a fun removable access panel with fake circuit boards. I'm not anticipating amy problems, but I never do until I encounter them.
Print Recommendations:It is absolutely *ESSENTIAL* that the upper and lower halves of the console come out perfectly flat with no curling. If you have a heated bed, I recommend investing in an Anycubic Ultrabase borosilicate plate of the appropriate size for your build platform. Jack the bed temperature up to 70 or 80, spray a bunch of non-aerosol hairspray before and during printing of the first layer, and seal the entire printer in a cardboard box if you don't have an enclosed build area. Anything to keep the heat consistent and the corners from curling.
This is one of my most complex designs and comes with several variant pieces depending on how you intend to print it:
There is an alternate Blank Console Top that contains no buttons, for people who want to add them in manually using some other method. Everett Bailey designed a very cool sticker set (see photo above) specifically for this model that will save you a bunch of time if you don't want to do a bunch of detail painting. Otherwise, use the "Grey console top (with buttons)" STL file for the full 3D experience.
You also have the option of using a 1½" by 5/8" compression spring (40mm x 16mm) to make the central column rise and fall when you press down on it. If you don't use a spring, it will default to the lowest position. You can still move it by pulling up on it, but you'll be pulling against the glue holding the time rotor in place and it may break lose if played with too forcefully.
There are two separate folders for the central column's transparent pieces. There's a Column interior glass (solid for SLA printers) version where all 10 layers of the column interior are attached together that can be used if you have access to a SLA resin printer that can print it all nice and clean without blobby artifacts. Everyone else will need to use the "separate column layers"
folder to print all 10 layers of the column separately in transparent PETG or PLA, which will then need to be cleaned up and glued together.
I have included a printable version of the outer column exterior glass shell, but unless you've got a SLA printer, it's not going to print clear enough to see through, even if you use PETG. Instead you will probably want to use something else that's 40mm wide and then cut it to the appropriate height. You can order clear acrylic 40mm tubes on eBay or from your local plastic supplier, or for a super cheap alternative, pick up one of the generic multi-colored toothpick dispensers below (packaging appears to vary depending on where you live, but you can find them in the US, UK, and Australia). They're the perfect size, but do have a slight ring around the top edge, which is annoying, but I haven't found a better alternative.
If you use 40mm acrylic tubing, I have included a 3mm tall Column Topper that you can print out of PETG to form the top that should be more or less see-through if you print it on a glass plate and don't flex it before it's had a chance to cool.
Note that due to the incredibly small size of the column's internal pillars, if you try to print with PLA or PETG, it's going to come out looking like crap, even with separate layers and a HD printer printing at the slowest print speed possible (I printed mine at 4). You're going to have to do a ton of cleanup work with an xacto blade and soldering gun to make it look even halfway decent before gluing all the pieces together. But before you glue...
Make sure all 10 pieces of the central column are lined up in the correct sequence largest to smallest, and take note of the orientation of the four circular indentations. These need to be lined up vertically so that the red interior tubes will have room to slot into place. You will want to glue the first five layers together, and the last five layers together to form two large pieces, but do not join thee two halved together yet!
Once dry, attach the bottom layers of the column to the column base so that the holes line up, then insert the red column pieces into the four large holes in the column base so that the prongs go into the appropriate holes. Next, add the white column pieces inbetween them in a + pattern (see below).
The bottom five layers of column should help hold the pieces upright when you glue them in place. Once everything seems to be standing upright, you can add the top layers of column and seal the colored pieces inside.
If using a spring for your central column, you will need to glue the 1½" by 5/8" compression spring to the underside of the column base prior to assembly. These springs can be found in most hardware stores in the US, but I have no idea how common they are in the UK. Make sure you get a light duty spring that looks like the photo below. I've seen some flatter heavy duty springs on Amazon that are the correct outer dimensions, but are designed for metal stamping machines, and far too rigid to be manipulated by hand and used inside a plastic toy!
Glue the column neck down to the top of the console and let it set permanently before you attempt to insert the central column up from the underside of the console top. Make sure you glue it down well with crazy glue or another extra strong adhesive. When fully assembled, the column neck stops the spring-powered central column from popping up and out of the console. The guide tracks for the central column are 2mm shorter to the spring itself, so there will always be some slight pressure against the underside of the column neck and column base, which may pop loose if they aren't glued securely. (It is also a lot easier to paint in the red stripes on the column neck *before* you glue it down to the rest of the console)
VERSION NOTE: If for some reason, you've got a printed version that uses the older Version 4 files (which have since been replaced) you'll need to use a pair of bolt cutters to cut the same 40mm spring at the slightly-more-than-half-way point (about the 7th/8th coil). This is going to make your central column list to one side, which is why I fixed it on Version 5.
Light-up Recommendations: Note: several of the example photos below are from my first Version 4 attempt, which used multi-colored lights. All lights on the 20th Anniversary Console were white, so you should use one set of White 20-LED Fairy String Lights if you plan on making your console light up. These should be the style that uses two CR2032 lithium watch batteries, and has a switch on the end, rather than a push button.
The first thing you're going to need to do (after putting batteries in your string lights and making sure they all turn on) is clip off the very corner of the battery box by the wire so that the wire can exit from the long side rather than the side by the switch. Though you will have more LEDs than are strictly necessary *DO NOT* remove any lights off the end of the string. The voltage is calcuated for exactly 20 LEDs, so removing any will make the wires overheat and the remaining LEDs burn out faster.
Push the battery box up through the long rectangular hole in the console base, so that the light string goes up through the circular hole and through the corresponding hole on the console underside. Only the switch should be visible on the bottom of the console, but positioned deep enough that it will still lay flat. Leave yourself enough loose cordage before you start gluing down LEDs that the battery pack can be pulled out the bottom to replace batteries if needed.
There is a shallow track by the hole to the console base leading to where the bottom of the spring sits. You will want either the start of end of your LED light string to deposit the majority of the LED lights you won't be needing for control panel elements here to light up the central column.
There should be enough wire between the individual LEDs that you can string the lights from one hole to another on the underside of the top of the console without leaving any LEDS hanging out in the middle of nowhere (Note: photo above is from my old multi-colored Version 4, but your lights will be white).
Placement is likely to be a matter of trial and error until you get something that looks right. Make sure the lights are switched on when you are placing them so you can judge the amount of light spillage through the surrounding plastic.
The best way to block light spillage is by gluing down small strips of tin foil along areas that you don't want the light to shine through, like the tops of the monitors. For the monitors, I made two small rectangular boxes out of tin foil that I carefully pushed inside the hole with tweezers so that light would only go out the front part of the screen. Once you have your tinfoil layers in place, reinsert the LED lights where they need to go, and then use transparent window sealant or clear UV resin with a UV flashlight to fill the holes and lock the LEDs in place.
UV resin is the preferred option if you can get it, since it dries completely clear and rock solid in less than a minute. The transparent window sealant is cheaper, but it takes a full day to dry, and does shrink a bit, so LEDs can sink or shift around if you aren't careful. The only plus side of the window sealant is that (theoretically) if you had a LED burn out, you could carefully dismantle the console and then dig the affected LED out and replace it. With the resin, it's locked in place forever, and you will never be able to touch or move it again once it's been set in place.
Your final tasks before gluing the top and bottom halves of the console together are to make sure the door lever, Central column, and spring are all in position and working properly. Remember to check if there's any light spillage visible through the bottom of the console as well. If there is, you can easily apply a few more layers of tinfoil.
Use E6000 or another strong gelled epoxy to glue the two halves together, making sure that the wires aren't stuck anywhere that they'll force a gap between the two pieces. Once you have the two halves perfectly flat and aligned, use at least 3 to 4 clamps to hold the two pieces together until dry.
Note: Photo below shows Version 4 where the column and spring were added later. Yours should already have the column in place.
Color Recommendations: The colors below should match the general layout of the console, not counting the red grooved around the hexagonal top section.
Whenever possible, I tried to use the colors seen on-screen from the earliest episode available (with the exception of Frontios, which had some weird black buttons going on for that episode only) but for some of the harder to see panels, I was forced to use the restored Doctor Who Experience version as a reference point.
While the DWE version is mostly accurate, there are a few areas where the buttons differ in color and shape, and based on photos I found online, it appears that they had two of the panels swapped for a while before someone noticed the mistake.
Notes: Special thanks to Hastran on TurboSquid, who allowed me to use his original 3D sculpt as the basis for my figure.
Print Recommendations: The bottom "butt plug" for want of a better term should be printed at 100% fill so it has the maximum amount of weight. The upper body can be printed at about 65% fill to make it ligher, but I don't recommend going lower than that because the walls between the arm slots are pretty thin. The legs and head should also be printed at 100% fill and a slow print speed of 10 to increase their structural integrity and prevent snapping. I recommend printing each leg individually, as this will give you the cleanest print. Once printed, you will need to clip off the supports with a set of very sharp wire cutters (I recommend the Hakko CHP 170 Micro Cutters) and then sand or use a dremel to smooth them down before painting and assembly. All parts should slot in place with a minimal amount of force.
Color Recommendations: The two or three Wirrn costumes seen in Ark in Space had very slightly different color schemes. The dead queen was given a matte finish and had slightly greener mandibles, whereas the others had lighter lime green mandibles. In the second shot below, they look almost yellow, but I believe that's mainly due to the lighting. The mandible coloration continues up and around the eye, as you can see below, and the eyes themselves are an orangish brown. The remainder of the face and limbs are a dark green, and the body is primarily two tones of brown, with the upper body section a darker "coffee" brown and the lower thorax a lighter "chocolate" brown. The outer edges of the "hoops" that ring the body are painted a slightly darker brown as well.
Print Recommendations: Arms and other small parts should be printed at 100% fill for maximum structural integrity. The head, body, and base should be safe to print at about 65% fill.
Color Recommendations: This is one of the few classic monsters that I have yet to find any color reference photos of. The costumes must have ended up in a skip or somebody's private collection when filming was completed, since they never made it into any of the exhibits showcased in the following years. The head and shoulder sections seem quite reflective, especially in outdoor scenes, so best guess is that they were off-the-shelf aluminum spray-paint color similar to the Cybermen of the era, but they may also have been a glossy white the color of marble. The skirt section appears to be made out of a heavy canvas that is more or less the same color as the body, possibly spray-painted silver, though less glossy.
The arms are made out of lengths of black appliance venting material, and the gun has two stripes of some darker color around the middle and base of the cylinder, as well as the tip of the "plug" that slots into the hole in the arm. Again, we can only guess, as no color reference material exists for this story.
For painting your figure, there's this pretty cool stuff called Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome Airbrush Paint that will give you a highly reflective metalic sheen, especially if you paint it on a gloss black surface. If you used this stuff on a black SLA resin print, your entire figure would look like polished steel. On PLA printing, the layer lines disrupt the mirror chrome effect, but the end result will look very similar to the extremely light aluminum spraypaint they probably used on the original costumes.
023 - REMOVED
Notes: The season 12-17 "Newbery" TARDIS template has been removed from circulation, since Character Options have released a Season 17 'Shada' set as part of their 2019 B&M toy run. As always, templates will only be available as long as licensed versions of the toys do not exist.
If you have previously downloaded this template, please do not repost or share with anyone else.
024 - The Master's TARDIS (from Claws of Axos) Version 1 - Updated 5/6/2019
Notes: Stuart Galloway designed a similar TARDIS over on Thingiverse that I was going to link to directly on our new Guest Templates page, but then I noticed the corners weren't as smooth as they could be, the height was a bit off, the door proportions not quite right, etc. so perfectionist that I am, I ended up building a brand new version from scratch to more closely resemble the original prop.
The box is unusually high, so it had to be split in two, but this allowed me to create a pivoting door similar to the one on the Dalek Time Machine, even though we never actually see The Master enter it on screen. (You can see that it wasn't even a full prop as the yellow backdrop is clearly visible through the crack in the door)
Print Recommendations: You should be able to print this at about 40% fill and it'll come out fine. The entire thing is extremely solid except for the two small notches inside for attaching the two halves together.
Color Recommendations: We don't see the Master's TARDIS when it isn't bathed in the golden light of Axos, but in it's natural state, it was probably an eggshell white or light primer grey, similar to other un-Chameleoned TARDISes we've seen before.
025 - 8th Doctor TV Movie TARDIS Console Room Playset
Version 1 - Updated 5/27/2019
Notes: This is the single most complex template I have ever built. Special thanks to Smappy and Jeffrey Fink, whose original designs I mashed thegether and then built over the top of to form my own version. Also thanks to Brian Uiga, who restored the original 1996 prop, and sent me an astonishing number of up-close photos, that were invaluable for creating an accurate miniature version of this masterpiece.
Pre-Printing Component Checklist:Make sure you read this section before you start printing parts and realize partway through that you don't have all the bits you need. This template requires several
of the internal column pieces be printed out of resin. They are far too small and delicate to print out of transparent PLA or PETG. If you do not have a resin printer, you will need to use a 3D printing service or find someone who can print these parts for you. Additionally, several off-the shelf components are needed for full assembly.
To complete this playset, you will need:
1 x clear acrylic tube, 22mm outer diameter, 2mm thick, 18mm internal diameter for the central column. (Hard to find except on eBay shipped from China. You can also print one yourself out of clear resin, but it may not be as transparent as buying a pre-manufactered one.)
1 x 40mm tall, 16mm wide compression spring, for the upper half of the central column. (Note, if you don't use one, the time rotor will always be in the lowest position. If shopping online, make sure you get the ones that look like normal metal coil springs. Do not buy anything that's color coded with thick flat coils or that says "Die Spring" in the description as these are used in die stamping machines, and are far too rigid to use inside a plastic toy)
OPTIONAL 1 or 2 clear acrylic rods, 1.5mm outer diameter, to be cut to length for the internal tubes of the central column if you are not printing in resin.
OPTIONAL 1 x
whiteLED light-up brick NOTE: This needs to be the type with the Lego axel-shaped hole that can be pushed in to function as a button, NOT the slide switch type.
OPTIONAL 1 set of 30 or 40 LED white LED string lights (Must be the type that takes CR2032 batteries and has a switch at the base) for the bottom of the console and internal lights.
OPTIONAL 1 set of 10 LED white LED string lights (CR2032 battery, switch style) for the top half of the console. Note: Check on eBay, as it is getting increasingly hard to find the shorter length LED string lights. In this case, you want as few LEDs as possible to only illuminate the top of the column and the 6 spotlights. You can go with a 20 LED string light in a pinch, but you may have to wrap the end of the string in tin foil to prevent light leakage. If you don't plan on using the upper spotlights, you can illuminate the column from below only, but it won't be as bright or look as good.
OPTIONAL Heavy duty tin foil for wrapping unneeded LEDs and to block light leakage.
1 bottle of clear UV craft resin for the spotlights and other light-up console elements. The thicker stuff is best.
1 pack of liquid UV Resin coloring dye in assorted colors, for creating different colored lights for the console. (I've heard of some people using regular food coloring, but it's not that expensive, and you'll only use a few drops at a time)
1 multipack of blunt tip 18GA or 20GA dispensing needles and 1ml syringes (the kind used for jewelry and refilling vaping pens) for controlled delivery of the clear resin and resin dye. You will want at least 6. These are disposable, and each color of resin should go in a different syringe. Do not mix and match colors because it is impossible to clean them out afterwards and the syringes will eventually clog once the remaining resin inside sets up.
90% or higher Isoproply Alcohol and paper towels, for wiping down the destination cylinders after painting. (This is the best way to get the text to show up if resin printing. If you're printing the blank cylinders and using stickers, you can skip this part and the paint pen.)
Nitrate gloves (to protect your hands from the resin), some small epoxy resin mixing cups, or cheap disposable plastic paint palets for mixing and syringing up the colored resin and an airbrush (highly recommended) for painting the large and highly detailed parts.
Print Recommendations: Print and assembly is a very complicated process and there are multiple file options depending on whether you are printing in resin, filament, or both.
I have split up the STL files into two main subfolders; SLA Resin Printing and PLA filament printing. The PLA folder then has an additional subfolder of Small or transparent parts recommended for Resin which contains the higher quality resin versions of files. While I have tried to include PLA or PETG friendly versions of all files, some of the really small parts just weren't build for that level of detail and may just not work.
multiple versions of the base plate files in the SLA Resin Printing directory. Unless you have a truly massive resin printer like a Moai or Transform, you will need to print the Left, Right and Center for SLA versions which are designed to fit on a normal sized Photon or Elegoo Mars print area, as long as you angle them.
Pay attention to how many copies of each part it tells you to print. Each of the Arch pieces will need to be printed 6 times. You'll also need to print 1Base Plate center, 6 Base Plate L, and depending on whether you want to include LEDs, 5 Base Plate R + 1 Base Plate R with LED Hole, or 6 Base Plate R for a solid unlit version.
Assembly and Paint Recommendations: This is more or less the order of how I assembled mine. You can do some of the steps out of order, but be extra careful before you start glueing anything together.
1) Print all your pieces.
2) It is now safe to glue together and paint the 6 Arch Top/Middle/Base pieces and clawfoot console base and middle. Since they are all the same color, you can also use this opportunity to paint (but don't glue) the Upper Central Column pieces, the Central Column Base Ring, and all the metallic parts of the Scanner except the Wooden Scanner Face and Clear Scanner Screen.
3) Paint the wooden scanner face, then fully assemble the scanner with the LED brick, if you intend to use one. You can use the video below as a guide.
4) Assemble and paint the 6 triangles that make up the base plate. If you are using the LED string lights, either glue the LED battery pack in place, or make sure you have enough room to string it up through the hole on the center of the hexagon. Depending on how wobbly the tips of the triangles printed, you may need to drill out or otherwise widen the hole.
5) Slot the top of the 40mm tallcompression spring over the top of the Clear or Solid upper central column spring rod, and then screw the spring rod into the top half of the time rotor. You will then need to slot the spring assembly inside the two halves of the painted Upper Cental Column. (Note, you may need to sand down or snip the corners of the 4 pegs on the upper time rotor to get them to slot into the grooves)
Once you are sure everything fits snuggly, carefully glue the two halves of the Upper Central Column together (don't get any clue on the spring or internal time rotor mechanism), and then wrap tightly with a rubber band.
If you are going to use LED lights, drip a single drop of blue-tinted UV resin down the hole into the end of the cental column spring rod. This will give the console it's distinctive blue light look. Tap the liquid resin down to the end with a long bamboo skewer or a spare brass rod, so it's not sticking to the sides when you shine the UV light in to try to cure it.
Once that's done, you can stick a LED down the hole if you want to test the color, but don't glue it in place yet.
6) After this has had a chance to dry, confirm the spring mechanism works as intended. Once that's done, you can glue the 6 Arches into the slots on the outside of the upper central column.
If you are doing LEDs for the upper half of the console, slot the battery pack into the rectangular slot with the switch facing upwards. DO NOT glue it in place, as you may need to change the batteries at some point in the future. Beginning with LED closest to the battery pack, string one LED out through the small holes along the upper perimeter of the central column into the holes in the arches that lead to the spotlights. Make sure they poke out far enough that you can easily manipulate them when the columns are glued in place.
If you cannot find a short 10 LED light string, you will have to make due with a 20 and wrap the LEDs 7 through 17 in tin foil toblock their light. If you have extra LEDs, DO NOT CUT THE END OFF YOUR LED STRING LIGHT!!!! Doing so changes the total voltage and will cause them to overheat, and burn out faster, assuming they don't catch fire and/or burn down your carefully crafted model. The last two or 3 LEDs on the string should be crammed down the hole in the central column spring rod as close to the bottom as you can get them. (Use the same bamboo skewer or brass rod to push them down.)
7) Once the arches are in place, push and bend the LEDs so that they are just barely visible from within the circular depression at the top of the arch. I painted the interior of these spotlights reflective silver on my model, but it didn't make a shred of difference, so I wouldn't bother on yours. Once the LED is visible, but not sticking out too far, begin filling the depression with clear UV resin from a bottle, tube, or syringe. I recommend just barely covering the LED at first, then curing that layer with about 30-60 seconds of explosure from a UV flashlight to lock it in place. Once the LED's not going anywhere, tilt the arch so that the front of the spoitlight is perfectly level, and then pour just enough resin so you get a nice smooth slightly curved dome of resin. If anything spills, wipe it up quickly with a paper towel before you cure anything. Repeat this process for all 6 spotlights.
8) Try to flatten the wires down as much as possible, leaving both the tip of the spring rod and the switch for the LEDs accessible. You can now glue down the top Button Housing collar, unless you decided to print the Alternate Flat Plate (if vertical shelf space is an issue).
If you're using LEDs, DO NOT glue down the Flat Plate or Circular Button, as this needs to be removable to access the LED switch.
9) That does it for the upper half of the console. On to the bottom half.
If you want, you can glue together Console Panel Segments 1-3, and 5-6, but make sure they line up straight, otherwise you can end up with a crooked console or a big gap when you eventually glue all 6 parts together. Panel 4 must remain separate until the very end.
Next, give the 6 console top pieces and the underside of the Console a good base coat of rust/brown/red paint, as close as you can get to the mahogany color shown in the Color Recommendation section. It is a good idea to use an airbrush here and to masking tape off all the control panels that need to be a metallic color. Don't forget that you also need to paint the underside of the wooden shelf edge of the console too.
Once dry, you can lightly dry brush horisontal streaks with a
dark brown color to create the wood grain lines. Let this dry, then apply a second coat of the rusty mahogany color.
10) Now, paint all the individual control panel elements. Consult the Color Recommendations and video below for tips.
11) If you resin printed the black Destination Cylinders, paint over the text with a white Testor's paint pen, then wipe off horizontally with a paper towel soaked in Isopropyl Alcohol, as shown below. If you're using stickers... move along to the next step.
12) Once the cylinders are painted, it's time to mount them in panel 4.
First, take your 1.5mm wide brass rod and stick it into one of the three holes on the left side of panel 4. Mark the point where it sticks out with a sharpie and then cut slightly shorter than where you marked. Repeat with the other two holes. The goal is to have three rod lengths that fit snuggly in the holes without sticking out past the edge.
13) Once you have your 3 rod lengths, set them aside for a moment and use a long M2 x 10mmhex bolt to secure the hand break (the smaller metal handle part of the lever should be on the top) through the hole on the right side of panel 4. If the head of the hex bolt sticks out slightly past the edge, you may have to use a drill or dremel on the corresponding corner of panel 5 so that the two can sit flush together for assembly.
Next, take your desitination cylinders and begin placing them in the slots from the underside of the console. Then thread the brass rod through the middle so that they spin freely like a bead on an abacus. (Also make sure that when you flip the console panel back over, the text is displaying in the correct direction.) If the destination cylinders don't spin freely, check for minor print defects, overhang supports that didn't get removed or something else that may be blocking their movement.
Once you are satisfied they spin correctly, take a tiny blob of UV resin, and cement the end of the rod in place. Repeat with the other two rows. (The bottom row is the hardest, since there are multiple cylinders that must be lined up exactly. It's easiest to start from the closest edge, dropping the pieces in with a pair of tweezers, and then pushing the rod through as you go.)
Color Recommendations: The diagram below will give you an approximate guide for general color and light positions.
And here are closer panel-by-panel views of the console.
Pre-Restored Panel 1
Restored Panel 1 and 2
Pre-Restored panel 2
Pre-Restored Panel 3
Restored Panel 4
Original Panel 4 and 5
Pre-Restored Panel 5 (note order of botton lights is off. It should be Blue, Yellow, Yellow.)
Pre-Restored Panel 6
Scanner and Time Rotor. Note that the rotor should be transparent opaque white. It's only the top and bottom lighting effect that makes it look blue.
Below you can see the spotlight placement and that the outer edge of the wood platform is a lighter grey color, similat to that of the columns.
026 - Toymaker's Robot Version 2 - Updated 9/30/2019
Notes: I am still test printing this one. Print at your own risk currently.
Note, there is a lot of incredibly tiny 0.5mm or smaller surface
detail on here that I don't really expect to print on most filament printers. It's mainly there as a painting guide, and ideally, there might be a very faint shadow that will help you line up all the surface detail when painting.
Print Recommendations: As with previous designs the google drive files are split into three sections depending on whether you're printing PLA, SLA, or a SLA/Flexible SLA mix.
The PLA folder has a subfolder containing parts that I'm pretty sure will only print effectively in resin, including the transparent screen. However, you only have to use these parts if you want to use the backlit countdown monitor. The Alternate Front panel should print fine in regular PLA.
For the flexible SLA option, the only parts you actually need to print in a 50/50% mix with a flexible resin like Siraya Tech's Tenacious are the two arms. Everything else can be printed solid, though a little bit of Tenacious (10-20%) for added strength never hurts.
Solid SLA folder is exactly the same, but uses notched holes to hold the arms in place. If you twist them at the right angle, they will fall out, though hopefully not without some effort.
Color Recommendations: Below, you can see a rare color photograph of the two original Toymaker Robots designs by Shawcraft.
The version on the left has slightly thicker arms and two red buttons stuck over the top of the yellow dials, which does not correspond to any known version of the robot seen in surviving footage or telesnaps. However the white and yellow quarters of the eyes are straight on this version, instead of at an angle like the one on the right, leading me to believe it was changed prior to production to become the "false CRT" monitor prop we see Dodo arm wresling in the bottom left photo.
The "stoplight" pattern on the very top part of the chest appears to be Yellow, Blue Red, on one chest, and Red Blue Yellow on the other, though this is practically impossible to identify in the black and white footage.
The target patern on the left side of the chest contains concentric rings of (from the outer edge) black, yellow, red, a thin white or silver edge, and a blue dot in the center. The same pattern occurs on the upper right shoulder, but the upper left shoulder is bare in the few telesnaps where it is visible.
The rotary dial on the right of the chest has a hard-to-see grey ring around the outer perimeter, and a back background with alternating yellow and red circles, and a blue circle in the middle.
The rivets on the body are blue, and the "hair"
pattern has a black background and a yellow zig-zag pattern with a red outer edge connecting two yellow circles, that are possibly supposed to be tape spools?
There are no known telesnaps or production photos showing the reverse side of the robot, so lacking any other information I have made them match the front of the "Yellow Dial" versions. During filming, there are a few side shots of the real CRT monitor robot that suggest that the CRT didn't fit all the way inside the body, and so the back of the monitor is just barely visible sticking out a hole in the back.
The CRT versions of the robot feature most heavily throughout episodes 3-4, though most of the time the screen was a flat "false CRT" For scenes where the numbers are visibly lit up and seen to change, a real CRT monitor displaying output from another camera was used. You can clearly see the cables snaking off into the background in the bottom-right shot below.
027 - Mk. VII Robotic Cleaner Version 1 - Updated 11/30/2019
Notes: I haven't test printed this one in PLA yet. It's primarily designed for SLA resin printing and some of the small parts may not print in PLA. Both versions require 1.5mm wide brass rods or something similar (technically, you can use toothpicks in a pinch)
Print Recommendations: If you attempt to print in PLA you should be able to print the body and base at about 40% fill and it'll be fine. All limbs should be printed at 100% fill for maximum strength.
For SLA: There is a separate folder containing the optional wheeled bin, a set of legs to stick out the back, and a set of Kroagnon eyes, if you don't want to print the full figure.
There are also two versions of the saw blade. A tapered version that might come out sharp enough to cut you, and a flatter version that should be a bit safer.
This particular figure is very close to the maximum FEP Tank width on
a standard sized Anycubic Photon or Elegoo Mars printer. There is only 1mm to spare on the upper body, but I ended up printing mine without a raft, and it turned out fine. You may need to tweak your raft settings if youire running into issues. Also, you will likely need to top up on resin at least once during your build.
This figure makes use of 1.5mm wide brass rods for the central arm and claw pivots (though you can substitute a bit of nail, wire coathanger, or even a toothpick if you're desperate.) Stick the rod in through the side hole (you may need to carefully widen it with a drill bit if it's collapsed), mark it, then snip the rod just a mm or two shorter than the mark, so the edge doesn't stick out past the opening. After painting, attach the two pieces together with the snipped brass rod, then seal the end of the hole with some UV craft resin, glue, milliput, or something similar and paint over again once dry.
Color Recommendations: Painting your cleaner robot should be fairly simple. It's all a very bright white, except for the accordion joints in the middle of the arms, which are a bright red, and the drill/claw/saw attachments, which are metallic silver. The tiny light up at the top has a red band, but the actual flashing light inside is white.
The "face" is black, as are the round areas surrounding the headlights, and the small rectangular holes where the hitch attaches in the front and back. The hitch itself (only seen in a couple of frames) is red if anybody wonders.
The bin accessory is white with black wheels.
I'd recommend painting the inside of the container black, especially if you're going to use the optional leg(s) and don't want people peeking too far inside. A yellow Kang leg has a black high-ankle boot, and yellow rag pants, while the Caretaker legs have a lower cut black sole, and military grey trousers.
Notes: This figure is designed for both SLA resin printing and Regular PLA, though the eyes in particular are best printed out of SLA.
Print Recommendations: The Beta version comes separated into PLA and SLA versions. Even The pyramid shaped computer panels have two options for Flashing LED string light and solid versions.
Color Recommendations: We know very little about what the Kroagnon prop truly looked like, as it was only ever shown on screen in tight close-up through thick smoke or from the back, with tinted lighting. Unfortunately, the only behind-the-scenes photos I have from the front are in black and white, and still mostly obscured by smoke.
The back and bottom half of the triangular consoles to either side of the eyes appears to be a flat "stainless steel" color, and the buttons and trapezoid-shaped keyboard area are both solid black. The upper part of the triangle is either black or a very dark battleship grey matching the desk surface.
While it is nearly impossible to see in the black and white set photos, there are 9 triangular controls on the panel, six of which (the outer upwards facing ones you can see clearly) light up and flash orange and the remaining three downward facing ones in the middle are a dark purplish blue. They are very similar to the garbage disposal controls seen in the Rezzie's flat, and are almost certainly the exact same color.
The C-shaped desk is clearly darker than the computers, and while it looks sort of bronze-ish in the one good shot we get of it from the back when the cylinder is releasing the transformed Chief Caretaker, I believe this is mainly due to the orangeish gel filters being used, and the surface is actually a dark battleship grey similar to what was used on Resurrection-era Daleks. The rectangular mats under the base of the eyes are significantly darker than the table surface, so they are likely a flat black.
Notes: This figure is designed for both SLA resin printing and Regular PLA, though thin items like the hands may not print especially well in PLA.
Print Recommendations: The files come separated into PLA and SLA versions. I've included alternate PLA versions of the left and right hands with added supports that may result in cleaner prints. There are also a few lance accessories that may or may not print since they're so thin. All body parts on the PLA version should be printed at 100% fill, since they're so thin.
If printing in SLA resin I recommend adding some flexible resin like Siraya Tech's Tenacious to the batch for the arms, hands, and feet, since they're so thin, breaking might occur otherwise.
This figure makes use of 1.5mm wide brass rods for the elbow and knee pivots (though you can substitute a bit of nail, wire coat hanger, or even a toothpick if you're desperate.) Stick the rod in through the side hole (you may need to carefully widen it with a drill bit if it wont go through on it's own), mark it, then snip the rod just a mm or two shorter than the mark, so the edge doesn't stick out past the opening. Attach the two pieces together with the snipped brass rod, then seal the end of the hole with some UV craft resin, glue, milliput, or something similar and paint over once dry.
Color Recommendations: This one's super easy. The body is a sleek grey with a bit of gloss to it. The head is mirror chrome polish, and the boots are a similar bright silver color.
For the head and boots, there's this cool stuff called Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome Airbrush Paint that will give you a highly reflective metalic sheen, especially if you paint it on a gloss black surface. If you print the head out of black SLA resin then airbrush this stuff over the top of it, it'll come out looking like polished steel.
On PLA printing, the layer lines disrupt the mirror chrome effect, but again, this stuff is an extremely good silver chrome finish and you get 4x more per bottle than regular enamel paint, so you may want to use it anyways.
Notes: As has become traditional, this is the April Fools Day "joke" figure for 2020.
It has zero points of articulation, except you have an option to print the cactus hollow using a flexible resin like Siraya Tech's Tenacious or filament like TPU or NinjaFlex, which means that in theory, it can "deflate" as seen in the episode. There's a loop up inside the tip of the cactus that you are supposed to be able to thread a bit of string around, then down through the platform and out a hole in the back, so you can pull on it and make Meglos collapse.
Unfortunately, even when printing out of 100% Tenacious, I couldn't get this feature to work on my resin test print. I haven't tried it with NinjaFlex (which is significantly more flexible) but I suspect to make it work, the walls need to be even thinner than they are now, but not so thin that they collapse or tear during printing. I might try playing around with this one later to see if I can get it to work better, but for now, it's primarily a solid structure.
Print Recommendations: The files come separated into 4 variants - Hollow (with and without spines) for printing with flexible resin or filament, and Solid (with and without spines) for those who want a regular figure.
I got at least some of the spines to print when using flexible resin, though it was a pain setting up support structures. I suspect for filament printing (even with TPU) you'll want to print the No Spines version.
Color Recommendations: Meglos is green. The exact same color as a cactus. However, the spines and outer edges are tan, as is the bottom section where it starts to taper down. (You can get a better view of the colorization in this rare composite photo taken at the Blackpool exhibit by Alex Lyon.)
031 - Junk Mail Robot & Spy Kite Version 2 - Updated 5/6/2020
Notes: The Junk Mail Robot started out as a quicky and dirty remix of an excellent design by James Kersey to bring it into 5.5" scale and make it 3D printer friendly, but as is the way with these things, I ended up ripping it apart and putting it back together again to make it as screen accurate as I could, given that the prop does not appear to have made it to public exhibition and was only shown on screen for a couple of seconds.
This release is sort of a hodge podge of material from Greatest Show In The Galaxy, since James' design also included some juggling pins for the 7th Doctor, and not to be outdone, I decided to throw in a Spy Kite and the Psychic Circus eye medallion featured several times throughout the episode to add to the menagerie.
Print Recommendations: The files come separated into PLA and SLA versions. Several of the smaller elements like the legs and antenna may not print on a PLA printer, so if you're having trouble with those parts, I recommend checking your local hobby store or Amazon for 1.5mm (1/16 inch) aluminum tubing. This can be used to replace just about any part that doesn't print properly. Alternatively you can try using some 1.75 mm PLA filament right off the roll (though you may need to sand it down a bit or widen some of the holes.)
All parts, except the base should be printed at 100% fill for maximum strength. The base can be printed at 40% fill if you're filament printing, or made hollow for resin.
If resin printing, I would advise adding some flexible resin like Siraya Tech's Tenacious as an additive when printing the legs, antenna and solar panels so they have a tiny bit of flexibility and are less likely to break if bent.
I have included two different alternate versions of the legs file for SLA -- one angled, one with cut-away supports, similar to the PLA version. Since the amount of resin required is negligible, I recommend printing a couple of each, and just hope that enough of them make it through to be usable.
The Junk Mail Robot has a small hole in the center of the chest cavity that a small piece of plastic-coated wire or cording can be threaded through. I've found that 40 Pin IDC wire is the perfectweightto give you something flexible that can be pushed back into the chest cavity, but also hover in mid-air. Just cut off about 3 inches and then peel off just the grey wire.
After painting, knot one end of the wire and shove the other end through the hole in the lower chest section as well as the upper front chest section, as shown below. Then crazy glue the unknotted end into the hole in the base of the chest plug. Before you seal it up and glue everything in place, make sure you have tested pulling the plug out and pushing the cord back in a few times so you know the wound up cord will fit.
I recommend glueing the solar panels in place before assemble, since they tend to flop around and look ugly if you do not. You can leave the head free-rotating or glue it in place as well.
Color Recommendations: The Junk Mail Robot is mostly polished steel color, though the base is a little grungier and less polished. The eyes light up red, there is a dark red ring around the edge of the chest plug, and the squares on the solar panel appear bluish in most sequences though this is probably partially due to being semi-reflective, and they may be a darker glossy grey color outside of studio lighting. The interior of the chest is dark but should probably be painted black or dark grey to hide the internal mechanisms.
The Spy Kites came in a variety of colors, including yellow, orange, green, blue, and pink, though the yellow version was the one flown during most exterior recording sequences.
The kite rods are white, and because they're semi-transparent, the area where the fabric is folded over along the edges appears slightly darker.
The Doctor's juggling pins (from the top) have a black rubber tip, a thick dark red stripe, a thin black stripe, a thick white stripe, a thin black stripe, another thick stripe of dark red, a thin black stripe, the silver aluminum handle, and then a black rubber base.
The eye medallion is reflective mirror silver with a rose gold outer trim and chain. The eye drawing is black and the eyeball is blue with a white iris and small black pupil in the middle.
Notes: This figure is designed for both SLA resin printing and Regular PLA, though thin items like the hands and antenna may not print especially well in PLA.
Print Recommendations: The files come separated into PLA and SLA versions. I've included alternate PLA versions of the left and right hands with added supports that may result in cleaner prints. There are also a wide variety of swappable antenna. All body parts on the PLA version should be printed at 100% fill, since they're so thin and fragile.
If printing in SLA resin I recommend adding some flexible resin like Siraya Tech's Tenacious to the batch for everything since every single part has at least one section that is extremely thin and fragile.
This figure makes use of 1.5mm wide brass rods for the elbow and knee pivots (though you can substitute a bit of nail, wire coathanger, or even a toothpick if you're desperate.) Stick the rod in through the side hole (you may need to carefully widen it with a drill bit if it's collapsed), mark it, then snip the rod just a mm or two shorter than the mark, so the edge doesn't stick out past the opening. After painting, attach the two pieces together with the snipped brass rod, then seal the end of the hole with some UV craft resin, glue, milliput, or something similar and paint over again once dry.
Color Recommendations: Uhh... Black. It get's none more black than a Voord.
Actually that's not completely true. The head is a very dark black shiny rubber, whereas the body appears to be is a slightly more matte black, which might even be charcoal grey. There were three different Voord costumes used for recording, and each one used a slightly different wetsuit and mask combo.
The leader, Yartek (pictured left) wears what I call the "Turtleneck" costume during both episode 1 and 6. This one has the Crescent Moon antenna during Episode 1, which not-so-mysteriously disappears during Episode 6 when he decides to "disguise" himself under Arbitan's robes. This costume is opened by a zipper on the front and has a thin dark black knife belt and a white-handled knife worn on the back left hip. This also appears to be the same costume used for the empty suit discovered on the beach.
The second costume (pictured middle) is the "Popped Collar" Voord with the circular antenna, and we only see this version during Episode 1. Presumably this was the suit worn by Gordon Wales. This costume is distinctive because it has an entirely different cut and a diagonal sash (Usually worn right-to-left, but worn left-to-right in one brief scene where the Voord is stalking Susan outside the temple) and an extra-wide more military-looking knife belt, which contains a knife with a black handle.
The third costume (pictured right) is the "Crew Neck" Voord.
This appears to be nearly identical to Costume 1, except for the triangular antenna and flat collar which looks a bit like it was trimmed and then painted/sealed over with a shiny coating. This wetsuit has fairly noticeable snaps on the front and the thin black belt and white-handled knife ride a little bit higher on the waist.
This is the version of the costume that gets the most screentime, and was also used for later publicity shots with Carole Ann Ford. Since it's the one we have the highest quality photos of, this is the version I used as the basis for my design.
Yartek's mask on episode 6 is missing it's antenna, but also has breathing slits cut into the front and top. Neither of the other two masks have these. It's hard to tell for certain, but it looks like these were added between episodes 1 and 6, probably because they realized this Voord needed to speak more than the others.
The optional Key of Marinus accessory is likely too small to be properly painted, at 5.5" scale, but if you do manage to attempt it. I'm assuming the circuit board inside the clear lucite shell is likely tan (like most early 60's circuits) with silver circuit patterns. The inside of the clear circular section appears to be filled with steel wool. No doubt to represent the "extremely complex microcircuitry" of the piece.
Notes: Special thanks to Boundry Hopper on Gallifrey Base for the use of his roundel design. (I made one myself, but it was nowhere near as detailed.)
Print Recommendations: This figure uses the same files for both PLA and Resin versions. You do have the option of printing the cabinet with the roundels as separate pieces (in case you want to print them out of semi-transparent filament or resin) or solid meged with the lid and box.
Due to the large number of rounded and overhanging pieces, the box and lid may not print particularly well in regular filament.
When assembling, slot the lid into the box first, and then slide partway open and glue the base panel down to lock it in place.
Note that I had to flub the dimensions slightly so that you could actually fit the Character Options Peter Davison's figure inside it. I made it as snug as I could, but due to the way his arms are positioned I had to make it wider than it should have been, which proportionally increased the overall dimensions by somewhere around 7 to 10% of proper 5.5" scale.
It's not too far off, but if you want a truly screen accurate version (and plan on leaving it empty, you may have to shrink it a bit in your slicer software.
Color Recommendations: Pretty easy, the box itself is white, though it does end up a little dingy by the time they get it outdoors, especially around the corners.
The roundels are a slightly yellowed fiberglass or aged resin color.
Printing them out of "natural" colored filament will probably get you pretty close. For resin printing, you may want to try mixing some clear resin with white, or Siraya Tech's Tenacious resin, which is almost exactly this slightly yellowed transparent color straight out of the bottle.
If your roundels come out too transparent, try scuffing the reverse side with sandpaper to give them a more frosted look. You can also artificially yellow them by deliberately leaving them under your UV cure light for longer than you would normally.
034 - Sensorites Version 1 - Updated 6/7/2021
Notes: The Sensorite figure template has been removed from circulation, since Character Options have released a Sensorites set as part of their 2021 B&M toy run. As always, templates will only be available as long as licensed versions of the toys do not exist.
If you have previously downloaded this template, please do not repost or share with anyone else.
Once I manage to obtain one of the new sets myself and take some measurements, I'll be re-releasing just the heads as a stand-alone component for customizations.
035 - Erato & Wolf Weeds Version 1 - Updated 4/1/2021
Notes: This was the annual April Fools Day figure release for 2021, only this one is a bit of a rubbish looking monster double-dip, because the figure also comes with two Wolf Weeds.
Print Recommendations: Erato is a very big boy, roughly the size of a Sontaran Scout Ship and is too large (approximately 230mm by 240mm by 220mm tall) to fit on most standard sized printers. I have therefore created four subfolders where the body has been
split into one piece (both hollow and non-hollow format), halves, quarters, and eigths.
If you are attempting to print Erato on a regular-sized Anycubic Photon or Elegoo Mars size resin printer, you will likely need to split the eighths-sized pieces into even smaller 16ths size pieces.
The translator shield accessory also comes in a one-piece variant for SLA (Resin) printing, or a split version for PLA (filament) printing. Make sure you use the correct files for your printer type.
This figure require the use of 1.5mm wide brass rods for the two arm pivots (though you can substitute a bit of nail, wire coathanger, or even a toothpick if you're desperate.) Stick the rod in through the side hole (you may need to carefully widen it with a 2mm drill bit if it's collapsed), mark it, then snip the rod just a mm or two shorter than the mark, so the edge doesn't stick out past the opening. After painting, attach the two pieces together with the snipped brass rod, then seal the end of the hole with some UV craft resin, glue, milliput, or something similar and paint over again once dry.
Color Recommendations: Erato is often shown in strong green light, and appears greener than he really was. Additionally, when on the surface and pressed up against the castle door, his skin looked to be a dark brown (possibly, that's his natural color when he isn't in a pit and having astrologers thrown at him.) I would recommend painting him a greenish-grey with a little bit of brown mixed in. The underside of his "belly" and arms tend to be yellowish brown, and the round bumps placed at various points on his body also appear to be brown.
His translator shield is a dark silver grey the color of lead or pewter, with a darker grey interior. The handles and back side of the shield appear to be a lighter aluminum color.
When inactive, the central plug of the shield is an opaque white, but when somebody is touching it the tip lights up yellow (with some red spheres inside) and the shaft lights up blue-green.
The Wolf Weeds are primarily a dark green, but they have streaks of yellowish green, similar to Erato's underbelly. They also have a few tufts of what looks like fake Halloween spider-webbing sticking out from parts of their "body" and then for added realism, they were allowed to roll across a dirty studio floor and pick up all sorts of dried straw and leaves.
Print Recommendations: The files used to print this figure are exactly the same, regardless of whether you are printing in filament or resin. There are no alternate or optional parts this time around.
While SLA resin is preferrable, there's no reason why it shouldn't work in PLA... it'll just look a little rougher on the underside of parts that have overhang.
This figure require the use of 1.5mm wide brass rods for the two arm pivots (though you can substitute a bit of nail, wire coathanger, or even a toothpick if you're desperate.) Stick the rod in through the side hole (you may need to carefully widen it with a 2mm drill bit if it's collapsed), mark it, then snip the rod just a mm or two shorter than the mark, so the edge doesn't stick out past the opening. After painting, attach the two pieces together with the snipped brass rod, then seal the end of the hole with some UV craft resin, glue, milliput, or something similar and paint over again once dry.
Color Recommendations: Aggedor's coloration is pretty simple. His body and most of his head is a dark brown "bear" color, but the fleshy parts of his face and the pads on his paws are a darker coffee brown color. His horn and teeth are an ivory color, though his claws are slightly whiter. His tongue and the inside of his mouth are a dark red.
His eyes, though difficult to see in the transmitted story, are yellow with black pupils.