3D Printing Doctor Who
 
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3D PRINTING DOCTOR WHO

Templates

WARNING:
T
emplates will only be available as long as licensed versions of the figures do not exist.

All templates, including all future figure releases, will stop being shared if *ANYONE* is caught attempting to sell these figures or the designs on eBay, Etsy, at conventions, on 3D printing sites like Shapeways, etc.

If you aren't sure what this means, read the F.A.Q. page, contact me on Facebook, or just assume that if you are receiving money for items or information based on these designs, you are breaking the rules and DON'T DO IT!
All it takes is one greedy person to ruin the fun for everybody.


Below you will find links to Finished, Beta, and Rough versions of my 3D templates, as well as printing and color recommendations when applicable.

Finished template links go to a zip files containing all the individual STL files needed to print a complete version of the figure that has gone through several rounds of prototyping and test printings, to the point where I am satisfied that optimal quality has been reached and all points of articulation work as intended. Note: I am constantly going back tinkering with my figures, even "finished" ones, so if I make changes to a design (and they work) this link will be updated with a revised file/version number/update date.

Beta template links are exactly the same as Finished links, except I know the version presented won't be the final version. An example is the War Machine, which is fully printable for regular use, but I still need to go back fix the remote control motor mounts.

Rough template links go directly to the most recent "live" version of models on my TinkerCAD page: https://www.tinkercad.com/users/j5XjLLtvHOp-troyryanwood. You can use the export feature on TinkerCAD to download the STL files yourself, but be warned... the version up on TinkerCAD may be untested or a design I'm in the middle of working on, and not ready for printing. If you are going to pay a 3D printing service to print a figure for you, it is *highly* recommended you wait until I link to a fully tested version. Otherwise you may find yourself out a lot of money for a figure that won't even slot together properly.
Rough links are presented primarily for experienced users who want to tinker with or customize the design themselves, or download the pieces as OBJ files instead.

Since the prototyping process can take weeks, if not months, depending on the size and complexity of the figure, the newest figures on this list will usually only appear as Rough links to begin with. Beta and Finished links will only appear once I am satisfied that the figure can be printed and assembled with the minimum amount of effort on your part.

General Printing Recommendations:

All figures are designed to be printed at standard 0.1mm (100 micron) layer height unless otherwise noted. If you are using a commercial printing service, you may need to confirm that they are printing at this level, since it seems a lot of companies jack up their layer heights to 1.0mm instead, which allows them to print significantly faster, but causes all slopes and curves to have a very noticeable ziggurat-like step pattern. If you're going to spend a packet paying someone to print you a custom TARDIS Console, be sure you know exactly what you're getting into.


Figure releases:


001 - Alpha Centauri
002 - Quark
003 - Chumbley
004 - SIDRAT
005 - Larvae Gun
006 - Dalek Time Machine
007 - Zarbi
008 - Dalek Hoverbout
009 - Servo Robot
010 - Exxilon Root
011 - Dalek Transmat * *
012 - Keller Machine *
013 - War Machine *
*
014 - Rutan Scout *
015 - Hand of Omega *
*
016 - 12th Doctor’s Guitar
017 - Ogri *
018 - Yeti Mk. 1
019 - Taran Wood Beast
020 - 20th Anniversary TARDIS Console *
021 - Wirrn
022 - Kroton
023 - ???

* indicates UniBlock light-up brick compatible
* indicates LED string light (switch) compatible
* indicates Flashing LED string light (button) compatible
* indicates Go-Brix remote control compatible


001 - Alpha Centauri
Version 3 - Updated 3/26/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=17r-VE_BMAnSnLQIihlvlsI40JX-92Moj
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/bFpODXgFZUQ

Notes: I've completely redesigned ol' Alpha Centauri from the ground up. Everything should be a lot cleaner and more professional looking now, and the newly redesigned arms pass all the way through the body so that you can move them like a finger puppet (or possibly attach thick wire to them and make it more of an actual puppet). I have no idea if the head veins will actually print on a regular resolution printer, but they're definitely showing up on my 20 micron machine.

Print Recommendations: The hands should be printed solid at 100% fill to prevent possible snapping during play.
Depending on the quality of print, the arm holes may need to be slightly sanded or dremelled out so that the hands slide in, but do not pop out.

Color Recommendations: My design is based on the version of Alpha Centauri seen in The Curse of Peladon, where he/she/it is wearing a yellow-blending-down-to-green cape with a shorter, more ruffled neck. The body also blends down yellow to green in the same colorization. The cape used in Monster of Peladon is a flat pale green color and has a significantly higher, less ruffled neck with almost pillow-like padding. The eye/head also changed significantly between the two stories. Curse of Peladon Alpha has what appears to be a dark blue iris and a slightly lighter blue pupil surrounded be dark redish black lines. The pupil also takes up the majority of the eye with very little white around the edges. Monster of Peladon Alpha has a lighter green complexion, and a conpletely different iris with an outer blue ring surrounding a silver circle, and then a dark blue pupil the same color as the iris. The eyelids have a more pronounced red lining, and the eye veins are also more visible, though this may just be due to the lighter coloring.

002 - Quark
Version 4 - Updated 3/4/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MPBqxedxnpXMux7WvaIec0oknPlGgEDr
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0W8uZQmdI0z

Notes: The "eye tubes" come out like sticks even on my 20 micron printer. Eventually I may go back and tweak the design a bit to try to find a middle ground between authenticity and printability.

This design contains two extra accessories; a hexagonal background wall with two removable pieces of rubble, and the Quark's atomic drill. I printed my drill out of a color changing thermoplastic so that the unpainted sections "light up" white when held in your hand!

Print Recommendations: The head/arms/legs should be printed solid at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I use 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to prevent possible snapping during assembly or play. After printing, carefully trim the supports away from the four horizontal points on the head with a set of wire cutters and/or an xacto blade.
I highly recommend leaving the body in its current "back on the ground" state to ensure the cleanest possible print in the arm hole areas so that the arms slot in nice and clean without any wobbling.
When assembling, you may need a rubber mallet to force the feet into the slots. Always put them in first before doing the head so you can set the figure down upside down on a nice flat surface and give each leg a good sharp whack squarely on top with the mallet. Be sure to hit it squarely and not from the side, so you don't accidentlly snap them.

Color Recommendations: Thanks to some rare color photos from Panopticon and Longleat, we now know that the Quark costume was a dark charcoal grey, and the "eye tubes" were silver, but more interestingly the perspex points had red tips (that weren't at all visible during the episode) and the bottom panels of the head were transparent so the actors inside could see out.


003 - Chumbley
Version 6 - Updated 4/26/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GNgPmIaYLgua90zUGSbUnV9umSWXezHg
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/a3teaCTSpaV

Notes: This figure has also been recently redesigned from the ground up. I've actually gone back to a variation of the first design incorporating two 40mm x 5mm springs (available from most hardware stores) that will allow the Chumbley to chumble around in the raised position unless you press down on the head to make the three main body segments retract.

Print Recommendations: The top antenna section/pincers/claw arm should be printed individually at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I used 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to prevent possible snapping during assembly or play. (The antennas are extremely flimsy, so watch out.)

This figure has some uncharacteristically complex assembly instructions. After all pieces have printed, do the following in this order:

  • Paint all sections and allow to dry completely. You must do this first, because many of the areas you need to paint will be inaccessible after assembly. Several of the pieces will be rubbing on each other, so to ensure the best possible paint job, I recommend slathering on a layer of dullcote lacquer once finished to try to protect it as much as possible.
  • Insert the claw arm into the slot in the mid section followed by the tiny plug. Make sure the arm is facing the right direction so that the top of the claw fits into the small recess under the top lip. It shouldn't really need glue, but you can carefully add a drop of crazy glue before you put the plug in if it seems to be loose.
  • Insert the pincers into the top body section. They may need to be shaved down slightly if they won't go in, but try not to whittle them down too much, because you don't want them to pop out again. They're a pain in the ass to get into place because it mostly has to be done by hand and it's impossible to get a good grip. Whatever you do, DO NOT attach the antenna section. This is very fragile, and should be left until the very end, because you'll only end up destroying it while you wrestle with the rest of the figure.
  • Glue one spring into the base of bottom body segment. Do not compress the spring Allow it to dry completely, then flip it over and glue the other end of the spring into the middle body segment. Don't try to force the segments together yet, let it flop around like a bobblehead for now. Again, allow the glue to dry completely before moving on.
  • Carefully push down to force the two pieces together, while trying not to twist or otherwise damage the glue holding the spring in place. You may need to use a rubber mallet to force the two halves together, but if so, be very careful to do so on a hard flat surface where you can hit it squarely on the top without twisting the pieces or snapping off any of the feet.
  • Repeat the steps above with the top body section.
  • After all three body sections are securely attached, then, and only then, carefully add the antenna section to the top. You may want to print a couple of spare antenna sections because they are super easy to snap off. Luckily, this is the one part of the design that you can easily replace.

Color Recommendations: While I've never been able to find color photos of the props themselves, this colorized photo is probably pretty close. The dome parts appear to be of a semi-transparent tan or grey fiberglass material, and in one scene during Airlock (the only surviving episode) it look like at least one of the three main Chumbley props had some blinking internal lights that are just barely visible from inside the bottom skirt section. The base, feet, and middle claw appear to be a standard brushed steel color.

 

004 - SIDRAT
Version 2 - Updated 5/22/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jZ4BhFKTG730Nq2j0dMxUCgf0WGcV9Sz
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/cKLc7hAWYbb

Notes: This figure has been redesigned for improved door mobility and to add insets to the inside of the front panel where earth magnets can be mounted to simulate the "fridge magnet" style control layout. This is a VERY large figure that requires a build area that is at least 7" x 7". Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

Print Recommendations: I recommend that the front panel and door be printed at 70% fill or higher to give it maximum support. Depending on how prone your printer is to warping, the front panel may require a manual brim around each of the 4 corners for added support (see rough version for details)

Color Recommendations: While I've never been able to find a color photo of the prop itself, it's described in the episode as being "a big green box," and original design blueprints specify that the prop should be painted "Bronze Green" with two accent lines of "Ford Tractor Grey" next to the door. The interior is supposed to be black, except for the base of the door platform, which is "Flambeau Red." So there you go. You can find examples of each color (with slight variations) on a google image search, but it seems like in all three cases they were using common industrial tractor paint, so that's what I'd use for color matching. Based on similar greyscale color pallets from the same episode, it appears to be more or less the same hue as an army jeep, so this colorized photo below is probably pretty accurate.

005 - Larvae Gun
Version 2 - Updated 10/18/2017

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1n_JRzpVeRfzBL2v23OGhP8qLd3TBn-fS
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/djTwJ8cxqJD

Notes: .A very simple 2-piece figure with no articulation. Just print the two halves and then glue together with E-6000 or another heavy duty craft glue.

Print Recommendations: Both sections should really be printed individually at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I used 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to prevent possible snapping during play. (I've reinforced the legs, but they're still pretty easy to snap off, and the same goes for the "gun" snout.)

Color Recommendations: If you're wondering about color, I came across some rare 60's color photograph that shows the top section was a dark chocolate brown color and the legs are a yellowish "mattress foam" color with several random horizontal lines painted on them to simulate leg joints.

006 - Dalek Time Machine
Version 2 - Updated 3/7/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1c_PtZxywpZP3dTexfzcHzfpifIybaej2
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8V1aquWX0Qa

Notes: This is a VERY large figure that will just barely fit on my 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1" build area if I disable both Raft and Brim in CURA. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

Print Recommendations: Because the figure is so large, curling/warping is your enemy, especially since you probably won't be able to use a raft or brim. You're going to want to do everything you possibly can to prevent heat loss. and keep the roof and floor completely flat. I recommend spraying down a ton of non-aerosol hairspray, using a borosilicate glass plate if you have a heated bed, and if it's physically possible to do so, seal up your printer inside an enclosure, even if it's something you have to build yourself out of cardboard.

Color Recommendations: While I can't find color photos of the version of the Dalek Time Machine used in The Chase (the version in Dalek Masterplan was different), it appears that the inside of the arches were silver and the outsides were the same robin egg blue color as Dalek hemispheres from the same serial.

007 - Zarbi
Version 2 - Updated 11/13/2017

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=164oULmDXMvymtMtAYuZ8kmOhGn6noNXX
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jwJ418s1CDz

Notes: This Beta version is fully printable, but I eventually plan on going back to clean up the leg joints, add some detail to the eyes, and change the pivot type on the neck to a ball joint for more natural movement.

Print Recommendations: You will need to print *TWO* copies of both the front arm and back arm STL files in order to have enough limbs for a complete figure. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer. I highly recommend that the arms be printed individually and solid at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I use 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to make them less prone to snapping. I would also recommend doing the same for the head, since the mandibles are pretty fragile and very easy to snap off.
If possible, I recommend printing using black TPU filament, which is flexible and less likely to break, though somewhat difficult to control when printing small narrow pieces like the arms.

Color Recommendations: Based off rare color photos from the 60's it appears that the Zarbi were a chocolate brown color, similar to that of the Larvae Guns.

008 - Dalek Hoverbout
Version 2 - Updated 4/1/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1po6r1AvOVCUJpitcITMiASUczoc3hGuF
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/l7efTyIDDLO

Notes: This is another VERY large figure that will only fit on printers with a 7" x 7" or larger build area. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

Print Recommendations: Because it's a large print job, all the usual warnings about preventing warping apply. I recommend spraying down a ton of non-aerosol hairspray, using a borosilicate glass plate if you have a heated bed, and if it's physically possible to do so, seal up your printer inside an enclosure, even if it's something you have to build yourself out of cardboard. the railing should be printed solid at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I use 10) to ensure the cleanest possible print, but be warned that even under perfect conditions, the underside of the spheres (which will actually be the tops) are going to come out a little rough and stringy. You will very likely have to sand or grind them down yourself before painting, which is why printing at 100% fill is recommended.

Color Recommendations: It's all one color. Metallic silver.

009 - Servo Robot
Version 4 - Updated 5/7/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WtmAqd0hssQvJFf514Es4b3UBQ5YjIUo
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9NU7HLmzfbA

Notes: You will need to print *TWO* copies of the arm and leg STL file in order to have enough limbs for a complete figure. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer. Special thanks to Hastran on TurboSquid, who allowed me to use his original 3D sculpt as the basis for my figure.

Print Recommendations: I recommend that the arms and legs be printed individually at somewhere between 70-100% fill at a slow print speed (I use 20) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and make them as strong as possible. You may need to use a rubber mallet to force the legs into the slots on the base of the figure. Be very careful to do so on a hard flat surface where you can hit the leg squarely on the top without twisting it, so as not to accidentally break it.


Color Recommendations: There are some nice color photos of the original prop, albeit with several of the original knobs missing. The lights on the shoulder are red, the "eyes" are a jumble of circuitry that looks to be mostly copper in color, just like the chest grate. The two little lights to the left and right (the right ones have fallen off in the photo below) are red on top, and blue on the bottom. The accordion parts of the arms and legs are black, but the claws and feet are silver. The trapezoid pattern on the front of the feet is black.

010 - Exxilon Root
Version ?

Beta: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3AreE7zUktp

Notes: This figure is still experiencing several problems. While mostly functional in it's current rough state, the tube segments do not fit together particularly well.

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

011 - Dalek Transmat
Version 4 - Updated 7/22/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Qvt_M1l01hs0XJioxNTmlPEkQTaXzZBV
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3eu49Ft3IhM

Notes: The zip file contains three sub-folders depending on whether you plan on printing a solid version (which must be painted) a modular version which uses flashing LED string light that are operated by a button, or a non-flashing version that uses a different type of LED string lights which can be operated by a switch on the base. You will need to print *ONE* copy of the Transmat platform in the root folder (I have included an alternate with a brim added, since mine was curling a bit), and *TWO COPIES* of everything in the Solid or Light-Up sub folders, depending on which version you want to make. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer.

Print Recommendations: It is recommended that the hemisphere lights and triangular border pieces be printed in transparent PETG at 100% fill for maximum transparency if you are planning on using LED lights. PETG requires a much higher print temperature than PLA (I set mine to 250) and works best at a super low print speed of about 10. Alternatively, an opaque "Neutral" PLA will probably also work.

Color Recommendations: The transmat platform and generators are both flat black, and the access panel is a gun-metal grey. The inside of the generators appear to be a neutral cream color (or possibly just unpainted fibreboard).
The nine hemisphere lights are an off-white color and light up the "soft white" color of a filament light bulb. The three triangular border pieces are a similar color to the lights, but the top and bottom edges are solid black. The circuit boards are green and mostly silver (prior to getting smashed by Ace's bat) as shown below. There are also some red cables connecting the inner side walls of the generators to the back of the front access panel which help hold it in place when opened. These are too small and flexible to be reproduced on a 3D printer but if you want to go the extra mile, you can try using real red plastic-coated wires and embedding then in a small blob of melted filament on the back of the access door.
As you can see, the interior is partially illuminated, so it's okay if there's some light spillage from behind the circuit boards, but try to keep the LEDs secured firmly as far up into the top hemispheres as they will reach. (This will mainly be governed by the amount of wire you have between each LED). If you find the figure is too bright and lighting up areas that shouldn't be see-through, or you have unwanted LEDs at the end of the string it is recommended that you cover unwanted lights with tin foil rather than cutting off the LEDs themselves, since this can cause the remaining LEDs and wire to overheat and burn out faster. Tin foil can also be glued in place to form effective light barriers on the inside of sections that are not supposed to light up.

Light-up Recommendations: This can be a little tricky, especially if you're going for the flashing lights. The first thing you're going to need to do (after putting batteries in your string lights and making sure they all turn on, and painting the inside of the Transmat generator if you want it to be white) is carefully trim off the corner of the battery compartment with a pair of wire cutters so that the wires come out the side rather than the bottom. (see below) This will help the Transmat generators sit flat when construction is finished.

Next, insert the button piece into the back panel (this may need to be shaved down a bit depenending on how sloppily it printed, so that it moves freely in the square hole), then insert the battery pack into the hole in the back panel's base so that the button on the battery pack lines up with the button piece your printed and the wire comes out on the same side as the battery pack and IS NOT coming out the bottom. Once everything is in place, test that the printed button works for turning the lights off an on, then glue it together.

Next, make sure that your domes fit into the nine circular recesses on the outer perimeter of the Transmat generators. DO NOT glue them in place yet! We just want to make sure they fit. There's a pretty good chance the ones on the sides in particular may be slightly warped from the printing process. If this is the case, you can attempt to cut (with an xacto blade) melt (with a soldering iron) or drill them out to the appropriate size. We still want to retain the inner lip, so if using a drill, do not drill all the way through. A step bit is ideal for this purpose, and will give you a nice uniformly circular hole. You actually may not even need the drill, hand turning the step bit may be enough to smooth out the rough edges.



Once you know your domes will slot in place, then comes the tricky part (at least on the blinking LED version), where you have to snake EVERY OTHER LED through one of the nine holes to ensure all the lights that are visible from the outside will blink in sequence. This is easiest to do with the lights turned on, and you may need a crochet hook, tweezers, or some other tool to poke/pull them through the holes. For now, leave plenty of wire, since you don't want to have to try to fish one out from the wad in the middle once the two halves of the generator are glued together.

Next, glue the back panel in place. This will involve carefully making sure that the white battery panel slots into the arch-shaped hole with no wires underneath it, and no wires getting in the way of the panel itself. Once that's glued together, then shove as much of the wad of lights in the middle as you can into the middle area where the tiny circular holes are, and glue the top and bottom halves together as well, again, making sure that no wires are sticking out where they shouldn't.

Then add the three transparent border pieces, and once they're set in place, you can start gluing the LEDs into the domes, and gluing the domes into the circular holes (which you should have already tested to make sure they slot in place). Finally, once that step's done, tap down any remaining exposed LEDs, and glue your painted green circuit board into place. Then snap in the grey access panel door.

If you want to get fancy, you can then add extra wires from the side wall of the generator to the back of the door.


012 - Keller Machine
Version 2 - Updated 12/10/2017

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CCvH7GgTlG8cSk0LmxseemFiAPrrCylU
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8HGSQ86S32x

Notes: Comes in two flavors. A standard solid version and a light-up version compatible with UniBlock LED bricks. Rather surprisingly, I was able to print this on a standard 1mm resolution machine and the handles still came out, but your mileage may vary depending on your temperature settings. If you're having considerable trouble getting them to print, you may want to consider snipping them off with a pair of wire cutters, drilling two small holes for the bases, and then just inserting two bent pieces of filament of the appropriate lengths.

Print Recommendations: If possible, it is recommended that the top section be printed in transparent PETG at 100% fill for maximum clarity. PETG requires a much higher print temperature than PLA (I set mine to 250) and works best at a super low print speed of about 10.

Color Recommendations: I recommend using a white or red LED brick depending on what effect you're going for. (for most of the episodes it's got a white light, though later it's psychic attack effect is orangeish) Since the back of the brick is exposed, you'll need to paint it with grey model paint, and probably the rest of the figure as well to be consistent. The handles, neck, and control plate are silver, the top, vertical struts, and knobs are black, and the left light on the front is white or yellow, and the right light is blue.

013 - War Machine
Version ?

Beta: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7DKtNlmtNN3

Notes: This is another VERY large figure that will only fit on printers with a 7" x 7" or larger build area. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

This figure is printable in it's rough state for standard non-motorized use, but it does not work for GoBrix motor support yet. I will be going back to work on this figure once a few other designs are completed, but it's the biggest figure I've ever printed so tinkering ties up my machines for weeks.

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

014 - Rutan Scout
Version 2 - Updated 1/6/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=12zjdd6nUuZ5KozEDD1LXSRMLzlNiWdwY
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1Svv8lYuB9L

Notes: Designed to be printed out of transparent green PLA or PETG, and fitted with a green UniBlock LED brick. The figure can still be printed without the LED brick but it will have a 2x3 Lego-sized hole in the base.

Print Recommendations: Ideally, the figure should be printed on a HD machine capable of 20 micron resolution, however, as the monster is naturally stringy looking, even a blobby SD print may still be usable. You will likely need to do considerable clean-up with a soldering gun (see the Tips & Tricks page) to melt and smooth artifacts on the tentacles, and possibly ass additional "stringy" bits to the main blob. A soldering gun will also let you soften the heads of the two mobile "arms" before inserting them into the holes on the side.
Depending on your resolution and printer settings, the "key" tentacle that slots in the back and turns the light on or off may or may not print. If it doesn't, the light brick can be turned on with any Lego technic axle, and the hole plugged by the key tentacle until it's time to turn it off.

Color Recommendations: The Rutan shouldn't require much painting if you get the initial green color right, however, you may want to add a small "dry brush" bit of white to the grooves on the surface to emulate the internal white stringy bits. Painting with a high gloss lacquer will also give it a shiny slimy look.

015 - Hand of Omega
Version 5 - Updated 1/20/2018

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OIhAJUxiarGyhz49H4Dtn-wfRIl1DTLu
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/e0GErL0KF0D

Notes: This is another VERY large figure that will only fit on printers with a 7" x 7" or larger build area. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

In it's current Beta state, it's designed to work with three white UniBlock LED light bricks, however, I will be redesigning the figure in the future to work with LED string lights so that the lights can be easily turned on and off with a switch, rather than having to use a "key" to turn on and off three separate bricks. Since the interior is hollow, you can easily forego the LED bricks and their support layer entirely, and just drop a set of LED string lights in underneath the removable fog layer, whenever you want to turn it on.

Print Recommendations: The fog layer, brick support layer, and floating stand should all be printed out of transparent PETG at 100% fill for maximum transparency if you are planning on using LED light bricks. PETG requires a much higher print temperature than PLA (I set mine to 250) and works best at a super low print speed of about 10. Alternatively, an opaque "Neutral" PLA may also work. A higher resolution 20 micron printer will give you the best texture resolution on the exterior of the box, but is not required. I've seen some nice standard 100 micron resolution versions that other people have made.

Color Recommendations: For maximum authenticity, I recommend using Gizmo Dorks Metal Copper Fill filament for the box, if you can find it. The color is absolutely perfect, and looks quite a bit like real metal.

The Hand of Omega is usually seen throughout the episode layered in with bad CSO, which makes the dirt and grime added to it appear especially dark. During the few scenes where it's a static prop, we can see that this effect is much less pronounced, so if you're going to dirty your Hand up, go easy on the black paint.

016 - 12th Doctor’s Guitar
Version 1 - Updated 12/24/2017

Finished guitar: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xDwG7AHPRu63muxTAUdfRnP0jDyP0MXV
Beta glasses:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rtWaJ-xEptmQO0znUb0pthXfWqciWwBS
Rough (both): https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9my9WPJJ3w4

Notes: I broke my unwritten rule of "no modern Who" to create this special tribute to Peter Capaldi shortly before the airing of his final episode on 12/25/2017.

Print Recommendations: The guitar accessory will ONLY print on 20 micron resolution or better printers. All attempts to print this guitar on a standard 100 micron resolution printer self destructed for me. There are certain elements (like the whammy bar and strings) that won't even print on my HD machine, but they don't hurt anything.

The glasses haven't printed at all, even on my HD machine, but *might* print on a SLA resin printer. I'm including them here just in case someone wants to experiment.

Color Recommendations: Capaldi's guitar is a Yamaha SVG 800. You can find several photos of them up on the net. I have yet to figure out a way to reproduce the semi-reflective pearl sheen pattern on the white part of the guitar, but it's so tiny, it's a miracle it printed at all.

017 - Ogri
Version 1 - Updated 1/1/2018

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VrwYVeKFKuccuLcGRBh9BT_eDeXgmouQ
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2oEu10nvT14

Notes: The zip file contains two sub-folders depending on whether you plan on printing a solid version or a light up version compatible with UniBlock LED bricks. The light up version can still be used without the LED lights, but it will have a hole in the back where the light control dial goes. This is a Beta design because I eventually plan on creating a version that's compatible with the LED string lights.

Print Recommendations: It is recommended that the entire design be printed in transparent PETG at 100% fill for maximum clarity. PETG requires a much higher print temperature than PLA (I set mine to 250) and works best at a super low print speed of about 10. Alternatively, an opaque "Neutral" PLA may also work, but won't light up as brightly. A higher resolution 20 micron printer is recommended simply because the light control dial features a very important plus-shaped prong the same size as a Lego technic axle to turn the light block on and off. If this doesn't print absolutely perfectly, you'll have no way to activate the light source. In the event that you can't get the dial to print properly, I recommend cutting the plus shaped prong off, and then very carefully drilling a hole in the exact center of the light control dial and then crazy-gluing one of the little black technic pieces that comes with the UniBlocks into the hole. If you do this, use a ton of glue and make sure it's 100% dry before you use it, because you don't want to break it loose.

Color Recommendations: the color is easy, the entire Ogri is sandstone brown. I used a can of Rust-Oleum 223524 Desert Bisque spray paint on mine, and the color came out just about perfect, though the spray paint itself was given to coming out in lumpy chunks that were prone to peeling off wherever it puddled, so your best bet is to spray lightly and in multiple coats. If you're using the light dial, make sure you mask off the underside of the base prior to painting so you don't get paint up inside the figure (which will just diminish the brightness when it lights up)

018 - Yeti Mk. I
Version 4 - Updated 1/26/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E1DKTQW5MVszMOJXlpBJ0uKf-6lskWSQ
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7gLwM1ObPZ5

Notes: Possibly my finest figure to date, this design is based off the original Yeti costumes used during The Abominable Snowmen. The Mk. II seen in Web of Fear differed significantly, despite the episodes being filmed only a few months apart. The Mk. I Yeti looks much more like a living organic creature, and lack the weird "Moth" flashlight eyes, square mouths, and bare chests of the Mk. II's. They also have four fingers on each hand instead of three, and most unexpected of all, had somewhat creepy looking cats eyes that don't appear to have been visible at all in the filmed version. (Though since we're lacking 5 of the 6 episodes, it's hard to know for sure.)

My figure also comes with optional accessories including the pyramid of control spheres from the cave featured in episode 2.

Print Recommendations: Obviously, you will get better fur texture if you use a higher definition 20 micron printer rather than a standard definition 100 micron printer, but I've seen several people successfully print this figure in SD. I highly recommend printing the hands at 70% to 100% fill and the shoulders at 90% to 100% fill for maximum strength. The joint where the lower arm attaches to the upper is the hardest to fit together, and also the most likely to break when assembly. I cracked several getting my prototypes together, and while this V4 reprint goes together much easier, it's still a structural weak point. If you're having this figure printed professionally, you may want to splurge and get a couple of spare shoulders printed, just in case.

Color Recommendations: While this classic Troughton story is entirely missing aside from episode 2, we are quite lucky to have lots of excellent behind the scenes color photography and 8mm footage to consult, so we know exactly what the original Yeti looked like. The fur is a lighter brown on top, with a "dirty" grey tinted mid section, and the "face" and area around the chest flap are printed black. The hands and feet are black with white claws, and the chest cavity and control sphere are polished silver.

Useless information you don't really need to know: The oddest revelation about the original Yeti came as a surprise while I was pulling together source materials for my figure design. While not visible in the color photographs taken during filming (which have made it into several books and magazines since), watching the somewhat grainy 8mm footage, I was surprised to discover that the Yeti have eyes, and not the weird bicycle reflector "moth" eyes of the Mk. II. These appear to be yellow with almost cat-like pupils! Why we don't see them in the surviving telesnaps and Episode 2 footage is something of a mystery, but I suspect there might be a couple of explanations...

First, it's entirely possible this fellow above was a "hero" costume, which means it was given slightly more detail than some of the other background Yeti, and may have been used for a purported sequence in one of the later episodes where the yeti's eyes are supposed to light up. I've talked to at least one fan who claims to have seen this in the original camera script, though whether it actually made it onto film (or was even visible in the televised episode) we may never know. It also appears that the Yeti like to cover up their cats eyes with long fake eyelashes that appear to have been glued on as an afterthought, if this footage from the Schoolboys And Girls Exhibition (1967-1968) is any example.
And if the cats eyes weren't weird enough, it appears that they had a beak-like nose, which can't really be seen unless you get the perfect camera angle, like the one below.

Why am I telling you all this? I actually tried incorporating these elements into my original Yeti sculpt, but it came out looking more like a Gary Gygax owlbear than the Yeti we all know and love. A Yeti with a visible face... just doesn't seem right. So the figure I'm releasing is a compromise. It still has a bit of a beak, but not as sharp and hawk-like as the photo above, and I replaced the cats eyes with the lashes seen in the youtube video, but with a little bit of an indentation to imply that there are eyes under all that fur.
However, if you want to customize yours to match what we now know an accurate Yeti looks like, be my guest.

019 - Taran Wood Beast
Version 5 - Updated 4/19/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cvPKF2aGlHczhSzYHTk5KQXFYQeYPV8z
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dGE4qKXsw7Z

Notes: This was supposed to be a stupid April Fools joke, where I released an action figure no one wanted based on one of the most derided monster in Doctor Who history. Little did I know that this "quick and dirty" joke figure was going to take nearly a full month and countless prototypes to get anywhere near a printable state.

The figure also comes with a tiny Key To Time, which can be printed out of transparent PETG if you so choose.

Print Recommendations: You'll want to print the figure out of black PLA, ASB, or TPU. TPU is flexible, and may make it easier to fit the limbs together without snapping anything when assembling the figure, but it also has a tendency to blob up, especially when printing fine details, so it may not be possible to print the entire figure this way. Even after the version 5 update, it's still a royal pain getting this figure assembled without snapping anything. The feet and shoulders are the problem pieces, as the joint here are the weakest. The feet, shoulders, and hands should be printed at 90 to 100% fill for maximum structural integrity.
If you are having this figure professionally printed, I recommend requesting extra copies of both shoulders and feet because there's a very good chance you may need to replace at least one of them during assembly.

Color Recommendations: The Taran Wood Beast is black with a reddish brown face. It has what can only be described as dual lazy cat eyes that should be pointing off in different angles, and big white buck teeth. Really, the hardest part about painting this figure is making it look as shoddy and unconvincing as the original monster. I'm afraid that even with my limited artistic abilities, I still wasn't able to fully capture the inherent lameness of Tara's least threatening predator.

020 - 20th Anniversary TARDIS Console
Version 4 - Updated 6/1/2018

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=16gSV4SxGoi-iYr8jckHYzYURetYRuVPs
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0OB3wLWhzgt

Notes: Special thanks to Peacock Pete on Thingiverse, who's console formed the basic skeleton of my design.

I held off making a TARDIS console for a full year, because I knew it would have to be spectacular, and I wanted to be at the top of my game when I created it. The design you see before you is as screen accurate as physically possible, even down to placement and colorization of the individual buttons. This is a VERY large figure that will just barely fit on my 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1" build area if I disable both Raft and Brim in CURA. I have included manual brims as part of the design to try to prevent curling on the outer corners, which is especially problematic for this piece in particular. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print. The design also has support for two multi-colored LED string lights, that can be used to make the console displays light up!

I'm listing this one as a beta design since there are a few minor tweaks I want to make to it for my second printing, but it's such a large and elaborate print job (taking several weeks to print, even when everything goes perfectly), that I want to work on something else for a while before I head back to it.

Print Recommendations: It is absolutely *ESSENTIAL* that the two halves of the console come out perfectly flat with no curling. If you have a heated bed, I recommend investing in an Anycubic Ultrabase borosilicate plate of the appropriate size for your build platform. Jack the bed temperature up to 70 or 80, spray a bunch of non-aerosol hairspray before and during printing of the first layer, and seal the entire printer in a cardboard box if you don't have an enclosed build area. Anything to keep the heat consistent and the corners from curling.

This is my most complex design yet and comes with several variant pieces depending on how you want to print it:

  • There is an alternate Blank Console Top that contains no buttons, for people who want to add them in manually using some other method. Everett Bailey designed a very cool sticker set (see photo above) specifically for this model that will save you a bunch of time if you don't want to do a bunch of detail painting. Otherwise, use the "Grey console top (with buttons)" STL file for the full 3D experience.

  • There are also two versions of the Grey Column Base file. A short version if you intend to use a 4cm x 1.5cm spring to make the central column rise and fall, and a taller version if you want to use something else that doesn't have to factor in the spring's compression height.

  • There are two separate folders for the central column's transparent pieces. There's a one piece version where all 10 layers of the column interior are attached together that can be used if you have access to a SLA resin printer that can print it all nice and clean without blobby artifacts. Everyone else will probably want to use the "separate column layers" folder to print all 10 layers of the column separately in transparent PETG or PLA.


  • I have included a printable version of the outer column glass shell, but unless you've got a SLA printer, it's not going to print clear enough to see through, even if you use PETG. Instead you will probably want to use something else that's 40mm wide and then cut it to the appropriate height. You can order clear acrylic 40mm tubes on eBay or from your local plastic supplier, or for a super cheap alternative, pick up one of the generic multi-colored toothpick dispeners below (packaging appears to vary depending on where you live, but you can find them in the US, UK, and Australia). They're the perfect size, but do have a slight ring around the top edge, which is annoying.
    If you use 40mm acrylic tubing, I have included a 3mm tall Column Topper that you can print out of PETG to form the top that should be more or less see-through if you print it on a glass plate and don't flex it before it's had a chance to cool.



Note that due to the incredibly small size of the column's internal pillars, if you try to print with PLA or PETG, it's going to come out looking like crap, even with separate layers and a HD printer printing at the slowest print speed possible (I printed mine at 4). You're going to have to do a ton of cleanup work with an xacto blade and soldering gun to make it look even halfway decent before gluing all the pieces together. But before you glue...

Make sure all 10 pieces of the central column are lined up in the correct sequence largest to smallest, and take note of the orientation of the four circular indentations. These need to be lined up vertically so that the red interior tubes will have room to slot into place. You will want to glue the first five layers together, and the last five layers together to form two large pieces, but do not join thee two halved together yet!

Once dry, attach the bottom layers of the column to the column base so that the holes line up, then insert the red column pieces into the four large holes in the column base so that the prongs go into the appropriate holes. Next, add the white column pieces inbetween them in a + pattern (see below).


The bottom five layers of column should help hold the pieces upright when you glue them in place. Once everything seems to be standing upright, you can add the top layers of column and seal the colored pieces inside.

Next, use a pair of bolt cutters to cut the 4cm x 1.5cm spring at the slightly-more-than-half-way point (about the 7th/8th coil, as shown below. You can toss the short piece. The longer piece will need to be glued to the underside of the column base on the end you just cut. (So the flat end is sticking out the bottom) I recommend using E6000 or another flexible glue that won't break when the spring is compressed. Because the side you are gluing is uneven, prop it up with a toothpick or something else to keep it as straight as possible when it dries.

Color Recommendations: The colors below should match the general layout of the console, not counting the red grooved around the hexagonal top section.

For detailed color information consult this large photo montage.
Whenever possible, I tried to use the colors seen on-screen from the earliest episode available (with the exception of Frontios, which had some weird black buttons going on for that episode only) but for some of the harder to see panels, I was forced to use the restored Doctor Who Experience version as a reference point. While the DWE version is mostly accurate, there are a few areas where the buttons differ in color and shape, and based on photos I found online, it appears that they had two of the panels swapped for a while before someone noticed the mistake.

Light-up Recommendations: This is the trickiest part. The first thing you're going to need to do (after putting batteries in your string lights and making sure they all turn on) is thread the two string light strands up through the holes in the column base, so that the switches are accessible on the bottom. (see below)

Next, you are going to have to start threading them into the various holes in such a way that all but one of the yellow lights (the one used for the pointed diamond-like display to the right of the first monitor) ends up in the central hole with as much wire as possible so it can light up the central column. You should be able to do this so that no LED lights are left hanging out in the middle of nowhere, each side of the double-light panels gets a different colored light, and the two large monitor screens get a couple of different lights each.

Placement is likely to be a matter of trial and error until you get something that looks right.

Next, you are going to have to try to block off light spillage, while keeping the LED lights in place. Cutting and gluing small strips of tin foil along areas that you don't want the light to shine through (like the tops of the monitors), will help keep the illumination focused where you want it to go. For the monitors, I made two small rectangular boxes out of tin foil that I carefully pushed inside the hole with tweezers so that light would only go out the front part of the screen. Once you have your tinfoil layers in place, reinsert the LED lights where they need to go, and then squirt a tube of transparent window sealant into the holes to fill up all remaining space. (Really try to fill it up to maximum, as it shrinks a bit as it dries. Don't worry if it spills out a little on top.) This stuff works extremely well for holding the tin foil and LEDs in place while also diffusing the light. It dries really slowly (usually at least a day) and so check back periodically and turn on the lights to see if anything has shifted, and reposition the LEDs inside the still permeable goop as needed.

Be sure to check if there's light spillage shining through the bottom of the console as well. This is easily fixed by gluing a few layers of tinfoil to the underside of the top console to mask out the open LED sections.

Once the top and bottom are finished, make sure you insert the red door lever piece, then use E6000 or another strong gelled epoxy to glue the two halves together, making sure that the thick plastic covered wires aren't stuck anywhere that they'll force a gap between the two pieces. (The silver wires are thin enough, they won't make a significant difference.) Once you have the two halves perfectly flat and aligned, use at least 3 to 4 clamps to hold the two pieces together until dry.

Finally, glue the bottom spring of your central column in place, and you've got a finished console ready to paint and enjoy!

 

021 - Wirrn
Version 3 - Updated 9/1/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FNcCpLHHIUleSxADiXkSIsDH05LK8F2m
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/iAayJB1Fb6G

Notes: Special thanks to Hastran on TurboSquid, who allowed me to use his original 3D sculpt as the basis for my figure.

Print Recommendations: The bottom "butt plug" for want of a better term should be printed at 100% fill so it has the maximum amount of weight. The upper body can be printed at about 65% fill to make it ligher, but I don't recommend going lower than that because the walls between the arm slots are pretty thin. The legs and head should also be printed at 100% fill and a slow print speed of 10 to increase their structural integrity and prevent snapping. I recommend printing each leg individually, as this will give you the cleanest print. Once printed, you will need to clip off the supports with a set of very sharp wire cutters (I recommend the Hakko CHP 170 Micro Cutters) and then sand or use a dremel to smooth them down before painting and assembly. All parts should slot in place with a minimal amount of force.

Color Recommendations: The two or three Wirrn costumes seen in Ark in Space had very slightly different color schemes. The dead queen was given a matte finish and had slightly greener mandibles, whereas the others had lighter lime green mandibles. In the second shot below, they look almost yellow, but I believe that's mainly due to the lighting. The mandible coloration continues up and around the eye, as you can see below, and the eyes themselves are an orangish brown. The remainder of the face and limbs are a dark green, and the body is primarily two tones of brown, with the upper body section a darker "coffee" brown and the lower thorax a lighter "chocolate" brown. The outer edges of the "hoops" that ring the body are painted a slightly darker brown as well.

022 - Kroton
Version 2 - Updated 11/3/2018

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ty5-yPByXHvpPTzEK3Ple51ig_uPG4j-
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/judigc4PsVy

Notes: This beta version contains a few untested modifications. Print at your own risk.

Print Recommendations: Arms and other small parts should be printed at 100% fill for maximum structural integrity. The head, body, and base should be safe to print at about 65% fill.

Color Recommendations: This is one of the few classic monsters that I have yet to find any color reference photos of. The costumes must have ended up in a skip or somebody's private collection when filming was completed, since they never made it into any of the exhibits showcased in the following years. The head and shoulder sections seem quite reflective, especially in outdoor scenes, so best guess is that they were off-the-shelf aluminum spray-paint color similar to the Cybermen of the era, but they may also have been a glossy white the color of marble. The skirt section appears to be made out of a heavy canvas that is more or less the same color as the body, possibly spray-painted silver, though less glossy.

The arms are made out of lengths of black appliance venting material, and the gun has two stripes of some darker color around the middle and base of the cylinder, as well as the tip of the "plug" that slots into the hole in the arm. Again, we can only guess, as no color reference material exists for this story.

For painting your figure, there's this pretty cool stuff called Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome Airbrush Paint that will give you a highly reflective metalic sheen, especially if you paint it on a gloss black surface. If you used this stuff on a black SLA resin print, your entire figure would look like polished steel. On PLA printing, the layer lines disrupt the mirror chrome effect, but the end result will look very similar to the extremely light aluminum spraypaint they probably used on the original costumes.



023 - Voord

Coming Soonish.

024 - ????

Want to know what I'm working on next?
Keep watching the 3D Printing Doctor Who facebook page for the latest announcements!

   

 

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