3D Printing Doctor Who
 
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3D PRINTING DOCTOR WHO

Templates

WARNING:
T
emplates will only be available as long as licensed versions of the figures do not exist.

All templates, including all future figure releases, will stop being shared if *ANYONE* is caught attempting to sell these figures and/or the designs themselves for profit on eBay, Etsy, at conventions, on 3D printing sites like Shapeways, etc.

If you aren't sure what this means, read the F.A.Q. page, contact me on Facebook, or just assume that if you are receiving money for items or information based on these designs, you are breaking the rules and DON'T DO IT! All it takes is one greedy person to ruin the fun for everybody.

Below you will find links to Finished, Beta, and Rough versions of my 3D templates, as well as color recommendations for those monsters that appear in black and white episodes.

Finished template links go to a zip files containing all the individual STL files needed to print a complete version of the figure that has gone through several rounds of prototyping and test printings, to the point where I am satisfied that optimal quality has been reached and all points of articulation work as intended. Note: I am constantly going back tinkering with my figures, even "finished" ones, so periodically, this link may be updated with a newer version, if I update the design.

Beta template links are exactly the same as Finished links, except I know the version presented won't be the final version. An example is the War Machine, which is fully printable for regular use, but I still need to go back fix the remote control motor mounts, or the Dalek Transmat, which I will eventually go back and make a light-up figure.

Rough template links go directly to the most recent "live" version of models on my TinkerCAD page: https://www.tinkercad.com/users/j5XjLLtvHOp-troyryanwood. You can use the export feature on TinkerCAD to download the STL files yourself, but be warned... the versions up on TinkerCAD may be untested or a design I'm in the middle of working on, and not ready for printing. If you are going to pay a 3D printing service to print a figure for you, it is *highly* recommended you wait until I link to a fully tested version. Otherwise you may find yourself out a lot of money for a figure that won't even slot together.
Rough links are presented primarily for experienced users who want to tinker with the design themselves, or download the pieces as OBJ files instead.

Since the prototyping process can take weeks, if not months, depending on the size and complexity of the figure, the newest figures on this list will usually only appear as Rough links to begin with. Beta and Finished links will only appear once I am satisfied that the figure can be printed and assembled with the minimum amount of effort on your part.


Figure releases:


001 - Alpha Centauri
002 - Quark
003 - Chumbley
004 - SIDRAT
005 - Larvae Gun
006 - Dalek Time Machine
007 - Zarbi
008 - Dalek Hoverbout
009 - Servo Robot
010 - Exxilon Root
011 - Dalek Transmat
012 - Keller Machine *
013 - War Machine *
*
014 - Rutan Scout *
015 - Hand of Omega *
*
016 - 12th Doctor’s Guitar
017 - Ogri *
018 - Yeti Mk. 1
019 - Taran Wood Beast
020 - 20th Anniversary TARDIS Console *
021 - Wirrn

* indicates UniBlock light-up brick compatible
* indicates LED string light compatible
* indicates Go-Brix remote control compatible


001 - Alpha Centauri
Version 3 - Updated 3/26/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=17r-VE_BMAnSnLQIihlvlsI40JX-92Moj
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/bFpODXgFZUQ

Notes: I've completely redesigned ol' Alpha Centauri from the ground up. Everything should be a lot cleaner and more professional looking now, and the newly redesigned arms pass all the way through the body so that you can move them like a finger puppet (or possibly attach thick wire to them and make it more of an actual puppet). I have no idea if the head veins will actually print on a regular resolution printer, but they're definitely showing up on my 20 micron machine.

Print Recommendations: The hands should be printed solid at 100% fill to prevent possible snapping during play.
Depending on the quality of print, the arm holes may need to be slightly sanded or dremelled out so that the hands slide in, but do not pop out.

 

002 - Quark
Version 4 - Updated 3/4/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MPBqxedxnpXMux7WvaIec0oknPlGgEDr
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0W8uZQmdI0z

Notes: The "eye tubes" come out like sticks even on my 20 micron printer. Eventually I may go back and tweak the design a bit to try to find a middle ground between authenticity and printability.

This design contains two extra accessories; a hexagonal background wall with two removable pieces of rubble, and the Quark's atomic drill. I printed my drill out of a color changing thermoplastic so that the unpainted sections "light up" white when held in your hand!

Print Recommendations: The head/arms/legs should be printed solid at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I use 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to prevent possible snapping during assembly or play. After printing, carefully trim the supports away from the four horizontal points on the head with a set of wire cutters and/or an xacto blade.
I highly recommend leaving the body in its current "back on the ground" state to ensure the cleanest possible print in the arm hole areas so that the arms slot in nice and clean without any wobbling.
When assembling, you may need a rubber mallet to force the feet into the slots. Always put them in first before doing the head so you can set the figure down upside down on a nice flat surface and give each leg a good sharp whack squarely on top with the mallet. Be sure to hit it squarely and not from the side, so you don't accidentlly snap them.

Color Recommendations: Thanks to some rare color photos from Panopticon and Longleat, we now know that the Quark costume was a dark charcoal grey, and the "eye tubes" were silver, but more interestingly the perspex points had red tips (that weren't at all visible during the episode) and the bottom panels of the head were transparent so the actors inside could see out.


003 - Chumbley
Version 6 - Updated 4/26/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GNgPmIaYLgua90zUGSbUnV9umSWXezHg
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/a3teaCTSpaV

Notes: This figure has also been recently redesigned from the ground up. I've actually gone back to a variation of the first design incorporating two 40mm x 5mm springs (available from most hardware stores) that will allow the Chumbley to chumble around in the raised position unless you press down on the head to make the three main body segments retract.

Print Recommendations: The top antenna section/pincers/claw arm should be printed individually at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I used 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to prevent possible snapping during assembly or play. (The antennas are extremely flimsy, so watch out.)

This figure has some uncharacteristically complex assembly instructions. After all pieces have printed, do the following in this order:

  • Paint all sections and allow to dry completely. You must do this first, because many of the areas you need to paint will be inaccessible after assembly. Several of the pieces will be rubbing on each other, so to ensure the best possible paint job, I recommend slathering on a layer of dullcote lacquer once finished to try to protect it as much as possible.
  • Insert the claw arm into the slot in the mid section followed by the tiny plug. Make sure the arm is facing the right direction so that the top of the claw fits into the small recess under the top lip. It shouldn't really need glue, but you can carefully add a drop of crazy glue before you put the plug in if it seems to be loose.
  • Insert the pincers into the top body section. They may need to be shaved down slightly if they won't go in, but try not to whittle them down too much, because you don't want them to pop out again. They're a pain in the ass to get into place because it mostly has to be done by hand and it's impossible to get a good grip. Whatever you do, DO NOT attach the antenna section. This is very fragile, and should be left until the very end, because you'll only end up destroying it while you wrestle with the rest of the figure.
  • Glue one spring into the base of bottom body segment. Do not compress the spring Allow it to dry completely, then flip it over and glue the other end of the spring into the middle body segment. Don't try to force the segments together yet, let it flop around like a bobblehead for now. Again, allow the glue to dry completely before moving on.
  • Carefully push down to force the two pieces together, while trying not to twist or otherwise damage the glue holding the spring in place. You may need to use a rubber mallet to force the two halves together, but if so, be very careful to do so on a hard flat surface where you can hit it squarely on the top without twisting the pieces or snapping off any of the feet.
  • Repeat the steps above with the top body section.
  • After all three body sections are securely attached, then, and only then, carefully add the antenna section to the top. You may want to print a couple of spare antenna sections because they are super easy to snap off. Luckily, this is the one part of the design that you can easily replace.

Color Recommendations: While I've never been able to find color photos of the props themselves, this colorized photo is probably pretty close. The dome parts appear to be of a semi-transparent tan or grey fiberglass material, and in one scene during Airlock (the only surviving episode) it look like at least one of the three main Chumbley props had some blinking internal lights that are just barely visible from inside the bottom skirt section. The base, feet, and middle claw appear to be a standard brushed steel color.

 

004 - SIDRAT
Version 2 - Updated 5/22/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jZ4BhFKTG730Nq2j0dMxUCgf0WGcV9Sz
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/cKLc7hAWYbb

Notes: This figure has been redesigned for improved door mobility and to add insets to the inside of the front panel where earth magnets can be mounted to simulate the "fridge magnet" style control layout.

Print Recommendations: I recommend that the front panel and door be printed at 70% fill or higher to give it maximum support. Depending on how prone your printer is to warping, the front panel may require a manual brim around each of the 4 corners for added support (see rough version for details)

Color Recommendations: While I've never been able to find a color photo of the prop itself, it's described in the episode itself as being "a big green box." So there you go. Based on similar greyscale color pallets from the same episode, it appears to be more or less the same hue as an army jeep, so this colorized photo below is probably pretty accurate.

005 - Larvae Gun
Version 2 - Updated 10/18/2017

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1n_JRzpVeRfzBL2v23OGhP8qLd3TBn-fS
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/djTwJ8cxqJD

Notes: .A very simple 2-piece figure with no articulation. Just print the two halves and then glue together with E-6000 or another heavy duty craft glue.

Print Recommendations: Both sections should really be printed individually at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I used 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to prevent possible snapping during play. (I've reinforced the legs, but they're still pretty easy to snap off, and the same goes for the "gun" snout.)

Color Recommendations: If you're wondering about color, I came across some rare 60's color photograph that shows the top section was a dark chocolate brown color and the legs are a yellowish "mattress foam" color with several random horizontal lines painted on them to simulate leg joints.

006 - Dalek Time Machine
Version 2 - Updated 3/7/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1c_PtZxywpZP3dTexfzcHzfpifIybaej2
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8V1aquWX0Qa

Notes: This is a VERY large figure that will just barely fit on my 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1" build area if I disable both Raft and Brim in CURA. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

Print Recommendations: Because the figure is so large, curling/warping is your enemy, especially since you probably won't be able to use a raft or brim. You're going to want to do everything you possibly can to prevent heat loss. and keep the roof and floor completely flat. I recommend spraying down a ton of non-aerosol hairspray, using a borosilicate glass plate if you have a heated bed, and if it's physically possible to do so, seal up your printer inside an enclosure, even if it's something you have to build yourself out of cardboard.

Color Recommendations: While I can't find color photos of the version of the Dalek Time Machine used in The Chase (the version in Dalek Masterplan was different), it appears that the inside of the arches were silver and the outsides were the same robin egg blue color as Dalek hemispheres from the same serial.

007 - Zarbi
Version 2 - Updated 11/13/2017

Beta: https://drive.google.com/open?id=164oULmDXMvymtMtAYuZ8kmOhGn6noNXX
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jwJ418s1CDz

Notes: This Beta version is fully printable, but I eventually plan on going back to clean up the leg joints, add some detail to the eyes, and change the pivot type on the neck to a ball joint for more natural movement.

Print Recommendations: You will need to print *TWO* copies of both the front arm and back arm STL files in order to have enough limbs for a complete figure. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer. I highly recommend that the arms be printed individually and solid at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I use 10) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and to make them less prone to snapping. I would also recommend doing the same for the head, since the mandibles are pretty fragile and very easy to snap off.
If possible, I recommend printing using black TPU filament, which is flexible and less likely to break, though somewhat difficult to control when printing small narrow pieces like the arms.

Color Recommendations: Based off rare color photos from the 60's it appears that the Zarbi were a chocolate brown color, similar to that of the Larvae Guns.

008 - Dalek Hoverbout
Version 2 - Updated 4/1/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1po6r1AvOVCUJpitcITMiASUczoc3hGuF
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/l7efTyIDDLO

Notes: This is another VERY large figure that will only fit on printers with a 7" x 7" or larger build area. Please verify your printer is large enough to handle it before you attempt to print.

Print Recommendations: Because it's a large print job, all the usual warnings about preventing warping apply. I recommend spraying down a ton of non-aerosol hairspray, using a borosilicate glass plate if you have a heated bed, and if it's physically possible to do so, seal up your printer inside an enclosure, even if it's something you have to build yourself out of cardboard. the railing should be printed solid at 100% fill at a very slow print speed (I use 10) to ensure the cleanest possible print, but be warned that even under perfect conditions, the underside of the spheres (which will actually be the tops) are going to come out a little rough and stringy. You will very likely have to sand or grind them down yourself before painting, which is why printing at 100% fill is recommended.

Color Recommendations: It's all one color. Metallic silver.

009 - Servo Robot
Version 4 - Updated 5/7/2018

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WtmAqd0hssQvJFf514Es4b3UBQ5YjIUo
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9NU7HLmzfbA

Notes: You will need to print *TWO* copies of the arm and leg STL file in order to have enough limbs for a complete figure. Make sure this is clearly explained if sending the design to a professional printer.

Print Recommendations: I recommend that the arms and legs be printed individually at somewhere between 70-100% fill at a slow print speed (I use 20) to ensure the cleanest possible prints and make them as strong as possible. You may need to use a rubber mallet to force the legs into the slots on the base of the figure. Be very careful to do so on a hard flat surface where you can hit the leg squarely on the top without twisting it, so as not to accidentally break it.


Color Recommendations: There are some nice color photos of the original prop, albeit with several of the original knobs missing. The lights on the shoulder are red, the "eyes" are a jumble of circuitry that looks to be mostly copper in color, just like the chest grate. The two little lights to the left and right (the right ones have fallen off in the photo below) are red on top, and blue on the bottom. The accordion parts of the arms and legs are black, but the claws and feet are silver. The trapezoid pattern on the front of the feet is black.

010 - Exxilon Root
Version ?

Beta: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3AreE7zUktp

Notes: This figure is still experiencing several problems. While mostly functional in it's current rough state, the tube segments do not fit together particularly well.

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

011 - Dalek Transmat
Version ?

Beta: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3eu49Ft3IhM

Notes: This figure will be getting a revised version shortly that incorporates LED support.

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

012 - Keller Machine
Version 2 - Updated 12/10/2017

Finished: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CCvH7GgTlG8cSk0LmxseemFiAPrrCylU
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8HGSQ86S32x

Notes: Comes in two flavors. A standard solid version and a light-up version compatible with UniBlock LED bricks. Rather surprisingly, I was able to print this on a standard 1mm resolution machine and the handles still came out, but your mileage may vary depending on your temperature settings. If you're having considerable trouble getting them to print, you may want to consider snipping them off with a pair of wire cutters, drilling two small holes for the bases, and then just inserting two bent pieces of filament of the appropriate lengths.

Print Recommendations: If possible, it is recommended that the top section be printed in transparent PETG at 100% fill for maximum clarity. PETG requires a much higher print temperature than PLA (I set mine to 250) and works best at a super low print speed of about 10.

Color Recommendations: I recommend using a white or red LED brick depending on what effect you're going for. (for most of the episodes it's got a white light, though later it's psychic attack effect is orangeish) SInce the back of the brick is exposed, you'll need to paint it with grey model paint, and probably the rest of the figure as well to be consistent. The handles, neck, and control plate are silver, the top, vertical struts, and knobs are black, and the left light on the front is white or yellow, and the right light is blue.

013 - War Machine
Version ?

Beta: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7DKtNlmtNN3

Notes: This figure is printable in it's rough state for standard non-motorized use, but it does not work for GoBrix motor support yet. I will be going back to work on this figure once a few other designs are completed, but it's the biggest figure I've ever printed so tinkering ties up my machines for weeks.

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

014 - Rutan Scout
Version ?

Finished: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1Svv8lYuB9L

Notes: Coming Soon

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

015 - Hand of Omega
Version ?

Beta: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/e0GErL0KF0D

Notes: Coming Soon

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

016 - 12th Doctor’s Guitar
Version ?

Finished: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9my9WPJJ3w4

Notes: Coming Soon

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

017 - Ogri
Version ?

Finished: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2oEu10nvT14

Notes: Coming Soon

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

018 - Yeti Mk. 1
Version ?

Finished: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7gLwM1ObPZ5

Notes: Coming Soon

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

019 - Taran Wood Beast
Version ?

Finished: Coming Eventually
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dGE4qKXsw7Z

Notes: Coming Soon

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

020 - 20th Anniversary TARDIS Console
Version 1

Finished: Coming Soon
Rough: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0OB3wLWhzgt

Notes: Coming Soon

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

021 - Wirrn
Version 0

Finished: Coming Eventually
Rough: Coming Soon

Notes: Coming Soon

Print Recommendations: Coming Soon

Color Recommendations: Coming Soon

   
   
   


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