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All figures on this website are protected under Creative Commons license BY-NC-SA 4.0 International, and may not be sold for financial gain.
Designs featured on this page will only remain available as long as licensed versions of the figures do not exist. Some figures (like the Voord, Sensorite, and Raston Warrior Robot) have been removed from the line-up because Character Options released official versions of the toys after I had completed mine. All files, including any future releases, will likewise be pulled from the website if *ANYONE* is discovered attempting to profit by producing and selling figures based on these designs.
If you aren't sure what this means, read the F.A.Q. page, or just assume that if you are requesting money in exchange for products printed using these templates, you are breaking the project rules and DON'T DO IT! |
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Nobody is perfect and neither are these figures.
I try to make sure my figures are printable before I share the STL files, but there are no guarantees that every figure will print correctly for every person on every machine every time.
Different machines use different types of filament, nozzle sizes, layer heights, temperatures, infill percentages, print speeds, support structures, et al. all of which can contribute to the success or failure of a print.
As I print exclusively in SLA resin these days, even if the figure works perfectly for me, the alternate PLA versions (which I rely on other people to test) may have their own issues I haven't accounted for.
So, if your print keeps self-destructing,
appears to be missing a part, or has other structural issues, feel free to pop on over to the project's Facebook Group or tag @troyryanwood on twitter, mastodon, or instagram and share your tales of printing woe.
Depending on what problems you're having, I might be able to offer some sage advice, or at least a friendly shoulder to cry on. And if a figure prints out perfectly for you, I also enjoy hearing about your successes as well! |
All figures posted here are "finished," but some figures are more finished than others.
The file links listed below are catagorized as either Beta or Finished.
Beta links go to Google Drive zip files containing all the STL files needed to print a complete version of the figure... but the design hasn't been fully tested and may require some slight adjustments to improve scale, range of movement, or support for optional extras like LED lights or motors.
Finished links go to the same Google Drive zip files, but these have been successfully test-printed (in both PLA and SLA) by enough people that I'm confident the figure should work as intended for most people on most machines.
Although rare, you may also
occasionally see finished figures revert back to Beta status. If this happens, it is usually because I'm in the process of updating the design and have altered it enough that I feel it needs to be fully tested again.
If you are paying a 3D printing service to print a figure for you, it is *highly* recommended that you only print from Finished links, or Beta that you've seen other people print successfully before you. As the 11th Doctor would put it: "Do the smart thing... Let somebody else try first." |
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All figures are designed to be printed at standard 0.1mm (100 micron) layer height on regular PLA filament printers or at 0.02mm (20 micron) layer height on SLA resin printers unless otherwise noted.
The grid below indicates what print materials each figure is currently desinged to work with. Most figures are designed to print out of both filament and resin, but there are some exceptions, especially if the figure is quite large, has incredibly small or fragile parts, or components that must be printed out of a flexible material or completely transparent.
If you are resin printing, I highly recommend using a flexible resin
like 3D Materials Superflex (preferred, if you can get it) or Siraya Tech's Tenacious as an additive to make your prints stronger and prevent small parts from breaking if dropped. While flexible resin is about twice as expensive as regular resin, you only have to add a small amount (usually about 20-25% by volume) to standard ABS-like resin get the desired strengthening effect.
A few figures require flexible resin in higher concentrations to create bendable parts which will be noted in the Print Recommendations section of the figure itself.
Most of my figures require 1.5mm wide brass rods for knees, elbows, shoulder, and other pivot joints. These can be found in most DIY craft/hobby stores with a model airplane section or simply purchased online. Brass rods are ideal because they're cheap, sturdy, and easy to trim to a precise length with a standard pair of wire cutters, however, in a pinch, you can substitute a bit of wire coathanger, picture-hanging nail, or even a wooden toothpick, though you may need to drill out the articulation holes slightly larger..
Additionally, several of the figures come with optional mounts for low-cost LED string lights, LED bricks, motors, springs, or remote control elements
that can be used to turn your figure into something truly special. In most cases, these toys can still be enjoyed without these additional parts, but given the choice, who doesn't want a Rutan or TARDIS console that lights up at the touch of a button?
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Note: If you don't see what you're looking for here, check our Guest Designs & Remixes section for over 150 other figures, props, and customizing parts created by our guest artists.
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Doctor Who and all related IP rights belong to the BBC. This is a not-for-profit fan site for personal entertainment purposes only.
No copyright infringement intended. |
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