038 - Necros Incubator Dalek
From Revelation of the Daleks (1985)
Version 1 - Updated 3/21/2022

Finished: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hnbZW4X7MFLTR_H-x9MdrK_egMqpd1Mh

Notes: Thanks to Edward Felix for his original Imperial Dalek sculpt. This was what I started with as a base, thinking it would be a quick and easy remix figure, but upon closer inspection I soon realized that the glass Incubator Dalek has entirely different dimension from any other Dalek ever built. It is slightly larger, and the dimensions are unusually distorted because it needed a much taller neck section and dome so that the actor playing the mutant inside could be seen clearly. It also had a white and gold "skirt within a skirt" which is similar in design to Davros' chair, but again... has entirely different dimensions.


Print Recommendations: The files used to print this figure are the same, regardless of whether you are printing in PLA (filament) or SLA (Resin). However, because the outer shell of the figure is supposed to be completely transparent, those parts are pretty much *ONLY* designed to be printed in clear SLA resin. If you try printing out of PETG or another transparent filament, the best you can hope for is to print at 100% infill and posibly use some epoxy resin or XTC-3D brush-on coating on the inside of the model to try to smooth out some of the layer lines. Even with clear resin, do not expect the figure to come out looking perfectly clear like glass.

Since the Gunbox with Arms and Upper Dome and Eye contain incredibly thin parts that may snap off if you are using normal non-flexible resin, I highly recommend you print those pieces using a 50/50% mixture of 3D Materials Superflex or SirayaTech Tenacious flexible resin mixed with Anycubic or Elegoo Clear.
Superflex is clearer than Tenacious, And Anycubic is a little less prone to yellowing after UV exposure than Elegoo, so if you want maximum transparency for your Dalek, Superflex and Anycubic are the two best brands to use, if you can get them.

All parts are labeled with what color you should be printing them out of. CLEAR, WHITE, or RED, though you can just as easily print the Stengos mutant out of whatever color you like and just paint him red when you're done.

The white internal skirt contains a mounting hole on the bottom for LED Fairy String Lights, if you would like to make the figure light up. Please note that these will ONLY work with the style of string lights that use a compact circular battery pack, though if you know what you are doing, you could probably take one of the regular switch styles, cut off the plastic housing, then use electrical tape to stack the two batteries on top of each other and just let the switch part hang free.

While they do make a purple version of the LED fairy lights, it's a little too purple for my liking, and if you have to buy a multi-pack, you're better off getting the clear ones and then using a mix of clear craft resin and resin dye (or food coloring, or even paint or magic markers) to manually tint the LEDs to the pinkish-purple color you want.

This zip files includes two alternate versions of the inner and outer skirt, depending on whether you want to print them as One-Piece or split into their Left and Right halves.
The Left and Right versions will fit better on smaller sized Anycubic Photon or Elegoo Mars sized resin printers.

Paint Instructions: There isn't too much to paint here. The outer dalek casing is completely transparent, except for an opaque section around the botom 3/4 of the shoulder area. The internal white "chair" has golden bumps the exact same color as a Necros/Imperial Dalek, and everything up to the neckline appears to have an internal layer of crinkly clear iridescent cellophane. There should be enough of a gap between the inner and outer shell that you can insert a layer of your own, if you want.

The Stengos mutant inside is mostly pinkish purple, but his choppers are metallic silver except for a few stray white snaggleteeth. There are silver mesh parts stuck to the outside of his body that look suspiciously like sink strainers. This appears to have been topped off with a liberal application of random wires and shaving foam. Since the outside of the Incubator Dalek won't be perfectly clear, you won't be able to see too much of the mutant inside, so you don't have to put too much effort into painting him precisely.

Assembly Instructions: If you are going to be using LEDs, make sure you insert the LED battery pack and string the lights up through the hole in the base of the White Internal Skirt first. If you are going to color tint the LEDs, do so at this point while they are still accessible. Then try to spread them out inside the interior of the White Skirt before gluing the Stengos Mutant to the top. You want some LEDs fairly close to the top so they will shine up through the holes in the mutant base and illuminate Stengos and the top part of the Dalek.

Hot glue the battery pack in place to the underside of the White Skirt so that the button is facing the finger depression where you can reach it. Make sure you can turn it on and off successfully before you let it dry in place completely.

If you're going to insert a layer of iridescent cellophane between the inner and outer skirt, do so now. Then clamshell the Clear Outer Skirt around the White Internal Skirt, making sure it fits. Glue together the outer skirt (if you printed it in two halves) then add the gunbox, and shoulder section. Then do the Neck and Upper Dome. None of these parts have articulation so they can just be glued directly in place.