053 - Aggedor Statue
From Monster of Peladon (1974)
Version 1 - Updated 9/11/2026

Beta download:

Note: Make sure you download the full zip file. Google drive preview may not show all 13 files and folders.

This was originally just going to be a standard light-up figure similar to the Ogri, until I discovered tiny little nebulizer kits that can be used to make your Aggedor statue shoot glowing red "flame" just like in the episode!

All of these extra parts are extremely cheap and require no advanced technical knowledge to put together, but please use common sense when playing with any figure that contains liquids.

The mist from the nebulizer is so fine that it requires a lot of continuous spray to make anything wet, but if you leave the unit running continously on your display shelf, you might generate enough condensation over time to cause water damage to nearby wood or paper items, encourage the growth of mildew and mold, etc. Also, please do not fill the figure with essential oils or any other materials you might be tempted to put in a nebulizer for medicinal purposes.

Also note that you should not print this figure out of PLA filament if you intend to use the nebulizer feature.
PLA filament is NOT waterproof. In fact, since PLA is a biodegradable plastic, repeated exposure to moisture will cause it to break down rapidly.

Transparent PETG is a much better option if you want to print this figure out of filament and have it survive for more than a couple of uses, but note that even PETG is often not 100% waterproof, since microscopic gaps between the layer lines can slowly leech water over time. If you do print out of PETG, make sure you seal the outside of the nebulizer insert with an epoxy resin and try not to leave the model full of water when it is not in operation.


The files used to print this figure are the same, regardless of whether you are printing in PLA or PETG (filament) or SLA (resin) However, if you intend to make a light-up version, you will get the best results if you print out of transparent resin. Ideally a transparent red or transparent orange resin, so you don't have to paint the inside of the model.

I recommend adding at least a 20% mixture of flexible resin like 3DMaterials SuperFlex (preferred, if you can get it) or SirayaTech Tenacious as a strengthening agent for added durability. As these resins are clear to begin with, they won't affect the transparency of the model. Without flexible resin, the hollow parts of this model or smaller pieces like the teeth and claws could easily crack or break if dropped. If you are printing out of filament, I highly encourage you to use transparent orange PETG for this model because it is both transparent and waterproof.

This figure comes with multiple alternate parts depending on whether you intend to print solid, hollow, with LEDs only, or LEDs + Nebulizer. There is also an optional circular dais.

• Aggedor Statue - Solid = a solid 1-piece model with no lights or nebulizer support for PLA printing with infill.

• Aggedor Statue - Hollow = Hollow 1-piece, no lights or nebulizer for PLA or resin printing with supports. Note that printing a completely hollow figure like this on a resin printer without splitting it vertically massively increases the suction force on your build plate, which is likely to cause your model to self destruct or become warped or distorted.

• Aggedor Head RED (with eye holes) = The prefered head that will allow you to either print two separate Aggedor Eye CLEAR (Print 2) out of clear resin so that they light up white instead of red like the rest of the model, or you can simply fill the cavity full of clear UV craft resin, and embed the LEDs in place that way.
  
  
• Aggedor Head RED (one piece with eyes) = An alternate head that has the eyes built in, if you don't mind that the entire figure lights up red, or don't intend to use the light-up feature, but do want to use the nebulizer.

• Aggedor Front Body Without Nebulizer = A hollow body with mounts for LED string lights, but no nebulizer (do not print the Nebulizer Button or Nebulizer Insert parts with this version)

• Aggedor Back Body Without Nebulizer = A hollow body with mounts for LED string lights, but no nebulizer (do not print the Nebulizer Button or Nebulizer Insert parts with this version)

This figure requires no off-the-shelf parts to print the basic solid or hollow versions, but a couple of extremely cheap off-the-shelf pieces if you wish to print the deluxe version that lights up and shoots "fire". You will need:

One Battery-Powered DIY Atomizer Circuit Kit. (or alternate US example that comes in a 4 pack)

These kits typically run around £2 to £5 and should include an atomizer disc, the circuit board, the black T-shaped disc housing, a white cotton straw, and a 3x AA battery pack with curved corners.

The disc and battery pack should have very simple clip-in-place wire harness connectors, so there is no need to solder any components.

NOTE: there is a very similar-looking micro USB powered kit out there (easily spotted because it does not have a battery pack), as well as a kit that has both the micro USB and battery pack inputs on the same circuit board. That version might still work, but because it has a slightly different circuit layout, you might need to manually widen some of the mounting holes to make it fit the space.

The cotton nebulizer straw that comes with this kit is a standard 4" length, but for this model, we need to cut it in half into two 2" sections. When doing this, I recommend using a very sharp craft knife or box cutter blade to cut it as cleanly and flatly as possible.

One set of LED Fairy String Lights (Switch on the bottom style, typically 20 LEDs, requires two CR2032 watch batteries, usually included.)

These typically run £1-2 each, though you usually have to purchase them in a box of 6 to 12. (Though there are numerous other designs available on here that make use of the exact same lights!)

Make sure you are getting the style that looks like the above example with the small black switch on the bottom near the wire. The button activated style that I use for a lot of my other figures will not work for this model if you also intend to use the nebulizer kit.

If you are not using a nebulizer kit and only want the figure to light up, then you can use the button style, but because these often come with pre-programmed alternating on/off light patterns, you will need to be careful when installing the two LEDs for the eyes to make sure you skip a LED in between them, so both eye lights will always go on at the same time.

This is an unusual model in that you usually want to fully assemble it before you do any painting.
Before assembly, it is recommended that you fit all parts loosely together without glue to make sure that they fit snugly together without any gaps. You may need to sand down some parts or drill out some holes if they are too tight or warped during printing and don't fit together flat.


Note that if you printed your model out of clear resin instead of red or orange, you will want to paint the inside of the model red before you paint the outside (so that it glows red when illuminated.)

Note: If you are not using the nebulizer kit you can skip all steps referencing the nebulizer components or button. If you printed the Aggedor Front Body Without Nebulizer and Aggedor Back Body Without Nebulizer,the mounts pictured below will not be included, and the LED battery pack will slot directly into the back of the figure.

If you are using the nebulizer, Before you assemble any of the printed components, it is very important that you assemble and test the nebulizer first to make sure you put it together correctly. The top and bottom of the nebulizer disc are nearly identical, but the top should have a white ceramic ring that needs to face upwards.

You will also need to very carefully cut the 4" white cotton nebulizer straw exactly in half with a very sharp craft knife or box cutter blade. Try to make this cut as straight as possible. The end that you cut should be pointed downward when you insert the straw into the black nebulizer housing to test it so the perfectly flat end is pressed up against the bottom of the nebulizer disc.

Test the nebulizer assembly in a cup of water before you start putting the components into the figure, but note that to work properly, the nebulizer straw must be in direct contact with the disc. If you cut the straw too short, it might slip and lose contact with the disc after assembly, and at that point, the nebulizer will no longer function.


Once you are sure the nebulizer kit is working, insert the black T housing and the straw into the nebulizer insert part, so that the wire for the disc sticks out the back.

Insert the circuit board into the space in the front body of the model so that the button is facing towards the back, then slide the nebulizer insert in on top of this to lock the circuit board in place.

Then insert the nebulizer button into the back body part of the model, and verify that it slides freely in the hole.

Next snip off the corner of the LED battery pack so that the wire can stick out the side rather than the bottom. Distribute the LED string lights evenly throughout the body cavity of the front body, but make sure that the last three lights at the end of the string end up near the top, as these need to be installed in the head.

You can use hot glue to hold the LEDs in place and help diffuse their glow, but be careful not to melt the model if using PLA or PETG.


For the eye cavities in the head, assuming you printed the Aggedor Head RED (with eye holes), you can either insert the clear Aggedor Eyes from the back, or carefully fill the cavity with clear UV craft resin and then mount and cement two of the LEDs in place in the eye tubes with more UV craft resin or glue.

IMPORTANT: If using the button style LEDs without the nebulizer, make sure you skip a LED between the eyes so both will always turn on at the same time.

For the bottom tube located directly behind the throat, if you printed your model out of red resin, simply UV resin or glue the final LED in place here, and it will light up red to illuminate the "flame" jet. If you printed your Aggedor out of clear resin, you will want to tint this LED manually with red clear resin, paint, pigment mixed with clear glue. Whatever you need to make it both red and transparent.


Next attatch the nebulizer battery pack to the back body, and sandwich both the back and front of the model together. If you have trouble getting the battery packs to stay in place, you can use loops of tape or a very light strength glue, but if you want to be able to pull the battery packs out to change the batteries later, these should go in loose, and just be taped in place from the bottom after assembly.


Finally, attach the head so the neck tube sits flush on top of the nebulizer disc pushing it down tight. If the tube is slightly too long that you can't push the head down far enough to compress it and still glue the head on flush, you can try sanding a few mm off the end of the neck tube. Remember: it's important that the nebulizer tube be in tight!

After assembly, if there are any cracks, fill them in with UV craft putty before you paint the model so they don't end up looking lighter or darker than the rest of the model.

Ideally, if you want to make the figure light-up, you already printed it out of a red or orange transparent resin or PETG.
If you printed it clear or opaque, you can still use the light-up feature, but ideally, what you'll want to do is paint the interior of the model an orangeish red, similar to the image in the bottom right. This color will then bleed through when illuminated from within, similar to a painted lamp.

Assuming you've got yourself a transparent orange or red Aggedor statue, good news. This is a pretty easy one to paint. Just paint directly over the orange/red surface. You might want to do three coats here, because you'll be putting a fairly light color paint over a dark surface. Ideally, spray paint the entire statue (except for the eyes, mask those off with tape) with a white primer to begin with.

Let that dry, then ideally use an airbrush to paint a darker dirty greyish-brown to spray over all the the dark recessed areas of the statue, especially the armpits, sides, crotch area, and inside the fists and mouth. If you're using a brush, really make sure you jam it into all the nooks and crannies.

Then once that's dry, cover most of the open areas with a slightly yellowish eggshell or tan. An airbrush will work great here, because you can deliberately avoid spraying into the recessed areas, and you'll get a nice blending between the two. If you're painting with a brush, try using a dry brush technique so that the dark crevices where the fur texture is does not get painted the lighter color.

Finally, you'll want to paint the eyes. These should be a little darker than the rest of the model and very slightly rusty orange. Assuming you put white LEDs directly behind them, they should glow a bright yellow when illuminated from behind.

If you printed the optional circular dais platform, it should be a slightly more concrete or stucco looking color of brownish grey.

COMING SOON.